George,
Thanks for the suggestions. I'd be interested in your adaption to the zone
system. I once had a Mamiya 35mm with spot meter. I used it to find Zone V
areas in the field of view -- most often sky or green foliage/grass. I'll
probably return somewhat to that system.
Thanks again for responding.
Joel
At 07:56 AM 3/19/1998 -0800, you wrote:
>Joel:
>
>Below is some good advice from Tom. Here's some more I hope will help.
>
>First, Auto: you don't have to switch to manual to vary the exposure, you
>can use the +/- dial on top of the camera to give over/under exposures in
>1/3 stops.
>
>Spot: Tom's method is similar to mine. I'll use the spot to meter the
>brightest and darkest areas of the scene to get a feel for the total
>dynamic range. Then I can bias my exposure somewhere in between,
>depending on what I want. This is actually much easier with the 4Ti, as
>it can save the high/low readings on the bar graph. With the 2S, you
>have to remember them. This method lends itself well to the 'Zone'
>system. I've got a 2 or 3 paragraph description of how I use the 4Ti for
>zone system I could send if you like.
>
>Hope this helps.
>
>george
>
>MR THOMAS N CURLEE wrote:
>
>> Joel:
>>
>> With my OM-2S I set the spot meter on what seems to be a 'average'
>> part of the scene and then sweep the 'spot' back and forth around the
>> scene to see if the average is around the set point. I've found that
>> this works much better than the auto mode with some either contrasty
>> or weighted scenes. For example, I found that the auto mode does not
>> handle scenes with overcast sky very well - under exposes the scene
>> 1/2 to 1 stop. Using the spot mode and sweeping everything else
>> gives correct exposure.
>>
>
>
>
>
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