Joel:
Below is some good advice from Tom. Here's some more I hope will help.
First, Auto: you don't have to switch to manual to vary the exposure, you
can use the +/- dial on top of the camera to give over/under exposures in
1/3 stops.
Spot: Tom's method is similar to mine. I'll use the spot to meter the
brightest and darkest areas of the scene to get a feel for the total
dynamic range. Then I can bias my exposure somewhere in between,
depending on what I want. This is actually much easier with the 4Ti, as
it can save the high/low readings on the bar graph. With the 2S, you
have to remember them. This method lends itself well to the 'Zone'
system. I've got a 2 or 3 paragraph description of how I use the 4Ti for
zone system I could send if you like.
Hope this helps.
george
MR THOMAS N CURLEE wrote:
> Joel:
>
> With my OM-2S I set the spot meter on what seems to be a 'average'
> part of the scene and then sweep the 'spot' back and forth around the
> scene to see if the average is around the set point. I've found that
> this works much better than the auto mode with some either contrasty
> or weighted scenes. For example, I found that the auto mode does not
> handle scenes with overcast sky very well - under exposes the scene
> 1/2 to 1 stop. Using the spot mode and sweeping everything else
> gives correct exposure.
>
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