> Sorry, I still see it as a fundamental design error.
Well, I see that Olympus is using it to their advantage in another area.
They've been rating all the new flashes with a GN at ISO 200, not the
industry standard ISO 100. Who knew that just by changing the reference
point would suddenly make everything twice as powerful?
Chuck does bring up a rather important point. If you base ISO is 200 and
you are shooting an outdoor wedding or portrait or whatever, that my
Sunny-16 is about 1/200 (or 1/250) at F16. But I'm not going to shoot at
F16. F8 is more like it. So now my shutter speed is pushing 1/1000. Chris'
ND filters is a means of lowering the sensor's effective ISO, so this is a
viable alternative and has exactly the same effect on all other parimeters
as shooting at a lower ISO.
With my outdoor wedding scenario, I'm shooting from a variable distance.
Anywhere from one meter to 10 meters. Up close, this isn't a problem, but
to hold to maximum sync speed, I've got to stick with F16. It takes a TON
of flash to pound out enough light at 10 meters at F16. Now, if you are
like me, you prefer having the background one stop higher or lower than the
subject for artistic separation. If I try to drive the background down a
stop, I really need all the sync speed I can get.
I've owned a couple of medium-format cameras that had leaf shutters. Not
everything is perfect with them--especially with the exposure shifting that
occurs as you stop down and are shooting at 1/500, but I did appreciate the
fact I could sync at 1/500 when I wanted to. Same with my Minolta A1. The
ability to sync at pretty much any speed was most welcome--especially since
the base ISO was 160 and the 2/3" sensor meant that F7.1 was about the
deepest you wanted to go.
I've been known to throw polarizing filters on the lenses just to slow
things down.
AG
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