On 9/7/2011 3:42 PM, Chris Trask wrote:
> Looks like I have a lot of practice and evaluation to do once the weather
> cools down some and I can spend a few hours
> outdoors. For now, we have already broken the record for the number of days
> at 110º or higher, and we may tack on
> another one tomorrow. Not a good time to be outdoors for any length of time.
> So, it's back to basics time once again.
> I will satisfy my need to improve my techniques by first reading chapter 3
> ("Exposure") of Adams volume 2 ("The
> Negative"). Chris
I've been reading this thread with some bemusement.
1. You are talking about simple, old, battery free, selenium meters.
2. Chuck (and others?) are talking about how to most effectively use the
exposure tools built into the cameras.
3. Ken is talking about equipment so complex and sophisticated that even he
doesn't understand it all.
1. Selenium meters are wonderful, as long as it doesn't get too dark for them.
That's the big weakness with contemporary
high ISO capability.
1. As you say, the first meter I ever used, the GE PR-1, is an simple, well
designed tool that gets the job done. I was
amazed when I later used some other meters that they didn't trap the needle, I
had to pay attention to a reading and
transfer it to a dial. There is also an incident light attachment for the PR-1,
but probably pretty rare, although I
have one.
The GE PR-2 is much like the PR-1. The process is slightly different, but
equally easy. I'm not sure where mine is at
the moment, and I don't remember if the same incident light attachment fits,
although I think it does.
The Weston Master V was the best around in it's time. (Mine is a Model 748.) I
find it less intuitive and simple to use
than the GEs. Even ergonomically, pointing it is more awkward. The bigger
selenium cell lets it handle lower light, but
not a lot.
It does offer a choice on meter trapping. Put a thumbnail in the slot on the
button on the right side. Turn left and let
it pop out, and it acts as a read and trap button. Turn to the right and push
in, and it lets the meter needle run free.
The Invercone incident 'dome' is supposed to be excellent. I think I may have a
spare somewhere around here.
2. I'm largely an adherent of the Chuck school. Learn your camera's histograms
and flashing out of range indications on
the LCD and bracket where it's important.
3. There's no way I'd ever remember in the field how to do all the stuff on
those fancy meters Ken talks about - even if
I ever learned them all in the first place. It's all just overkill - and
overprice - to me. I'm sure there must be
situations where they would be better than simple metering and chimping, but
other than flash, which I don't do, I'm
hard pressed to think of when.
4. Before considering a LunaPro, check out how big it is - a monster. Also at
least early ones (all?) used the 1.35v
mercury batteries. Gossen sells an adapter, but it's kinda pricy.
I think the Gossen Super Pilot might be about the ideal meter for someone like
me, reasonable size and price, good low
light sensitivity and sliding incident light dome. The fly in the ointment is
the 1.35v battery. Unfortunately, Gossen's
otherwise excellent battery compartment design isn't compatible with the MR9
adapters. One must either recalibrate for
1.5v alkaline (Instructions on the web.), pop for the expensive Gossen adapter,
install a shotsky diode oneself, or
perhaps devise a mask of some sort for the MR9. No trap needle or off switch
for the battery.
5. Have you considered trying incident light metering? It's not for everybody,
but the situations and difficulties you
describe seem to me ideal for incident measurement.
En Lightened Moose
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