I wasn't aware that Olympus Master was so limited. Glad I'm not using it.
Chuck Norcutt
C.H.Ling wrote:
> With Canyon DPP it may be ok but for Olympus Master not, there is no curve
> under RAW manual, you can't make subtle adjustment, the contrast step is too
> wide for my taste. Olympus Master do has curve under "Edit" manual but you
> lost the WB and Exposure control what a strange design. Olympus Studio 2
> integrated them but you have to pay for it.
>
> There are many other post processing require 16 bit like highlight/shadow
> control, softer effect workflow also require curve up the brightness after
> processing.
>
> C.H.Ling
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chuck Norcutt"
>
>> However, when processing the raw file, if you have done all adjustments
>> that affect pixel brightness (exposure, shadows, highlights, color
>> balance, saturation, etc, etc, then there is no need to save the output
>> file in other than JPEG since 16 bit precision will no longer be
>> required. The only remaining editing operation that can affect pixel
>> brightness level is sharpening and that will be minor and OK in JPEG.
>>
>> Chuck Norcutt
>>
>>
>> C.H.Ling wrote:
>>> To make it simple, I recommend Olympus Master 2 (it is free) to covert
>>> your
>>> image. I mainly use the Exposure and WB function (a slide bar to set the
>>> color temp you wanted), you can also adjust contrast, sharpness,
>>> saturation... like you do inside the camera. For E-300 it even gives the
>>> option of disable the noise filter to gain more sharpness that is not
>>> available in the camera JPEG setting.
>>>
>>> With E-1 I usually set -1/3 stop during shooting so that you can have
>>> more
>>> room for highlight which does not recover well with Olympus Master. For
>>> under exposed image you can do a lot to it up to +2 stop during RAW
>>> conversion.
>>>
>>> You can save your converted file in 16 bit Tiff or 8 bit JPEG for further
>>> processing.
>>>
>>> C.H.Ling
>> --
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>
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