And at the other end of the spectrum, it just struck me that I have an
extra, undrilled lens board from my Toyo field 4x5. Seems I could make
a pinhole "lens" from that. But it would probably be better to drill
the actual pinhole in a brass shim attached to the lensboard, in front
of a slightly larger opening, right?
Earl
Andrew Dacey wrote:
>Hello,
>
>I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't resist posting
>something on topic.
>
>I had taken a pinhole photo workshop last summer and it was a lot of
>fun (the self-portrait on my homepage, http://www.tildefrugal.net/ is
>from the workshop). I'd like to do some more pinhole shooting but
>would prefer to use film instead of paper for the negs so that I can
>do enlargements.
>
>I have some plans to possibly build a 4x5 pinhole camera at some point
>but that's more of a long-term thing.
>
>I figure for the short-term a 35mm pinhole makes more sense. I know a
>lot of people have converted body caps into pinholes so that's one
>option. I had also seen someone post a link where a person had added a
>pinhole aperture to a 50mm lens (although not a true pinhole as this
>retained the optics). I'd thought of converting a 50/1.8 but don't
>have one to use (I know, I should turn in my ZA membership card right
>now, to be fair I gave mine away in order to enable another). So, that
>leaves the body cap route.
>
>Mainly what I'm looking for is some info on how to go about the
>conversion. First, is a body cap usually light tight around the edges
>(obviously I could check this fairly easily but may as well start with
>the wisdom of the list). Second, what's the focal length and what size
>pinhole would be needed to cover the 35mm frame? I'm assuming that it
>would be the flange distance plus however much the body cap extends
>out from there, is that right? And finally, what's the best method for
>doing the conversion? I thought of drilling it but don't know if I'd
>have a small enough bit and has the drawback of having a fairly thick
>piece of plastic so I'd need a wider opening to avoid vignetting I
>imagine. The other thought would be to cut out a larger hole and then
>attach a copper shim (which I do have). The added bonus I see here is
>that I could use extension tubes and a different shim to get different
>focal lengths.
>
>Any thoughts or recommendations?
>
>
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