Matt BenDaniel wrote:
I like the OM-4 overall but...
1. I like the aperture pre-fire and mirror lockup you get with the self-timer.
However, I wish there was a way I could get it with only a 2-second delay
instead of a 12-second delay.
Yup, I'd like that too.
2. The under/overexposure flash indicators are hard to see in low light. I've
tried to turn on the display light, but when the shutter is fired, it always
turns off that light. The under/overexposure indicators don't blink for very
long, so you have to quickly fumble to hit the display light immediately after
the exposure.
Those are separate LEDs not connected to the LCD and its display light.
3. Even if you set the shutter dial to 'B', if the battery test mode is actuated (e.g. accidentally in the camera bag), it can potentially drain the batteries.
Same thing for any camera with an on/off switch. If it gets bumped to
on, it is on, and the batteries can drain. Applies to all OMs and most
other SLRs. Set your bag up so it doesn't rattel around bumping against
other stuff.
4. I can move the exposure compensation dial without moving the ISO setting,
but not vice versa. I have to reset the exposure compensation after changing
the ISO.
Look at the ASA dial on an OM-2(n). Imagine that underneath your rewind
lever. Be thankful they kept the film speed dial small when they had to
move it to make room for the spot meter controls. The little ring you
pull up to change speeds is a tin bit taller on 4T(i) bodies and easier
to grip and use.
5. If a flash is attached and turned on, I cannot tell the camera not to use
flash (except sometimes by opening the aperture a lot, which is often
undesirable). I have to unplug the TTL cord or turn off the flash(es).
Unless you have a multi flash set up using cords, in which case the
point is generally to use flash, I don't see what the problem is. Is a
switch on the camera easier to turn off and on than the one on the
flash? In a multi flash set up with optical triggers, turning off the
flash connected to the camera in effect turns them all off. I guess I
don't 'get' this one.
6. An aluminum part in the shutter dial wore out from use and jammed. I got an
overhaul from John.
I guess that'll never happen to me, as I use Auto and Spot Modes almost
all the time. :-) Rather than switch to Manual to set a fixed exposure,
I tend to just use the Spot button and Memory.
7. There is no tiny window in the camera back to see the film type/ISO on the
cartridge. In fact, it's hard to be sure if there is film in the camera unless
you advance one frame.
Wind the rewind crank back. Resistance = film, no resistance = no film.
The window on the OMPC does this but does require some maintenance. The
adhesive on the foam light seal tends to creep out of place, risking a
light leak and making it impossible to see the info on the cartridge.
The auto DX encoding is great.
8. The camera makes distressing noises when I install new batteries until I get
the cover screwed on.
That's the circuit turning off and on and off and ...... as you make and
break the battery connection. Deft, well practiced fingers can avoid it.
Are any of these limitations particular to my camera?
Nope
Any workarounds I don't know?
A short, one OM meditation while waiting for the self-timer to fire will
lenghten your life and improve its quality - and you will get to take
more, better pictures. If that doesn't work for you, try using the time
to note the exposure info.
Does the OM-3 have the same limitations?
1. No, it is much worse, as these important features aren't on the 3 or
3Ti. At least with no self-timer and no MLU and diaphram pre-fire, you
never have to wait for it.
2. Don't know for sure, but it is essentially the same ciruitry, so
probably no difference.
3,4,5. No Difference.
6. It will wear out sooner, since a higher 0f shots will require using
it to change the shutter speed unless you never use Auto mode on the OM-4.
7. No difference
8. Who knows? Probably the same.
Moose
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