Hmmm... Since you're going to be at altitude, you may need something more
potent than a simple UV or Slylight A/B filter as the saturated blue sky can
affect your images. Your eye won't see it, but the camera will and I would not
put faith in the auto light balance.
Consider taking an 81 A/B/C filter set to balance the light temperature
ahead of the camera. I've been doing this on clear days out here so as to
record the best possible colour photo without the automatic light balancing of
the camera.
>
>Traveling to high altitudes and don't want any blue casts on my
>Thunder Dragons. With film, UV filters are usually important, but with
>digital even at high elevation, not so clear cut. Don't want any
>unnecessary air/glass interfaces degrading the image. Some Canyon lenses
>for example say use them to render the lens weather sealed and do seem to
>help avoid haze/blue casts >but likely exact cam/ lens dependent.
>Sometimes the sensor stack filter characteristics are known to some
>degree but it is difficult data to find.
>
>http://www.beyondvisible.com/BV3a-ICF.html
>
>Many recent Oly sensors have allow more near UV/violet in the sensor
>and use either coatings or lenses designed to prevent aberrations in
>these wavelengths to prevent problems. When using some Panny lenses
>the purple blobbie problem can appear.
>
>http://alanwatsonforster.org/writing/mft-purple.html
>
>Perhaps it will take a few shots in the field to determine but can be
>tough to decide on the fly.
>
Filtered Chris
When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro
- Hunter S. Thompson
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