Mike wrote:
> Looking good Brian!
>
> Two by six studs outside
walls are
> common where more insulation is desirable
>
> It is the
minimum here for
> R21. A few houses go thicker to accommodate higher R
value or add rigid
> insulation or sprayed-in. And that looks like
engineered wood? Is it
> sized to metric? Also notice more use of
framing members than we do. The
> reason being that wood has a lower R
value so transmits more heat. Less
> is more efficient both in material
and future heating cost. Are you
> going to use vertical siding?
>
.............................
To which Brian replied:
> I had
> enough
of a battle to get agreement to 6x2 without going bigger; and to
> get
triple glazing agreed to was even more of a battle. I had to do all
>
the leg-work (computer searches and talking) but finally got there.
The
> extra cost will be covered by surpluses from contents insurance
that
> will not be spent on replacing EVERYTHING that was burned.
>
>
Vertical
> siding or not? I'm not quite sure what you mean Mike. There
will be
> brick cladding as we call it, for the bottom story, and
douglas-fir
> shiplap for the top story just as the original house was.
The major
> misgiving I have about this part is that I wish I had stuck
to my guns
> over re-use of the original bricks/blocks from the old
house.
Brian, It is interesting to see how things are done in other
places. I suspect that you are in a similar seismic zone to us and codes
must be equivalent. Metal ties etc. as someone mentioned. I noticed a
few things about your construction. First of all you must mean more than
90mm x 40mm studs. More like 150mm x 40mm ??
YES, YOU ARE CORRECT - MY
BAD
Looks like the stud spacing is a little less than our typical 24"
(fits 4' x 8' plywood) so that must correspond to metric plywood sizes?
All of the framing looks like engineered laminated wood. An excellent
choice. A known quantity for precise engineering, very stable, a trait
especially important for a pre-cut house. A la SearsRoebuck back in the
beginning of the last century :)
I mentioned vertical (wood) siding
when I saw the double row of horizontal blocking. They would be needed
for nailing off the siding. Otherwise here blocking isn't used or is
mounted flat as it creates a thermal bridge. The only time it would be
required here is fire block in cavities over 10 feet or between floors
when balloon framing. Maybe has to do with shear requirements.
THE
REBUILDERS HAD NOT THOUGHT OF THERMAL BRIDGING. ALTHOUGH I KNOW ABOUT
IT, IT DIDN'T CROSS MY MIND TO TRY AND STEER THEIR DESIGN CRITERIA.
THEIR MANDATE WAS TO REPRODUCE THE BURNED HOUSE WHILE INCORPORATING
CURRENT NATIONAL BUILDING STANDARDS. I HAVE MADE A MAJOR GAIN BY
INCREASING WALL THICKNESS. WE DO NOT HAVE STAGGERED INNER AND OUTER
STUDS AS REFERRED TO BY AG.
Some other things I noticed was the
blocking in the corners and at the end of interior walls. These are
usually left open for insulation. Can't tell if the exterior headers are
solid or not. One place we typically add framing where you don't is to
double window sills. This facilitates nailing window trim depending on
the interior trim detail. Curious to see the detail between the framing
and the brick cladding.
Re doug fir shiplap. Is this NZ grown DF? I
hear it grows like a weed "down" there.
YES, D.FIR DOES GROW PRETTY
WELL IN THE SOUTH ISLAND. IN THE NORTH IT USED TO GROW VERY WELL, BUT
NOW "SWISS NEEDLE CAST" DISEASE DEFOLIATES IN IT THE NORTH ...
PHAEOCRYPTOPUS GAUMANNII. THIS IS AN ENDEMIC USA FUNGUS SPECIES ... SEE
http://www.partnershipforcoastalwatersheds.org/terrestrial-vegetation-in-the-lower-coos-watershed/
Keep
us updated
--
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