Mike asked:
Looking good Brian!
Two by six studs outside walls are
common where more insulation is desirable
It is the minimum here for
R21. A few houses go thicker to accommodate higher R value or add rigid
insulation or sprayed-in. And that looks like engineered wood? Is it
sized to metric? Also notice more use of framing members than we do. The
reason being that wood has a lower R value so transmits more heat. Less
is more efficient both in material and future heating cost. Are you
going to use vertical siding?
.............................
To which Brian replied:
I had
enough of a battle to get agreement to 6x2 without going bigger; and to
get triple glazing agreed to was even more of a battle. I had to do all
the leg-work (computer searches and talking) but finally got there. The
extra cost will be covered by surpluses from contents insurance that
will not be spent on replacing EVERYTHING that was burned.
Vertical
siding or not? I'm not quite sure what you mean Mike. There will be
brick cladding as we call it, for the bottom story, and douglas-fir
shiplap for the top story just as the original house was. The major
misgiving I have about this part is that I wish I had stuck to my guns
over re-use of the original bricks/blocks from the old house.
Brian, It is interesting to see how things are done in other places. I
suspect that you are in a similar seismic zone to us and codes must be
equivalent. Metal ties etc. as someone mentioned. I noticed a few things
about your construction. First of all you must mean more than 90mm x
40mm studs. More like 150mm x 40mm ?? Looks like the stud spacing is a
little less than our typical 24" (fits 4' x 8' plywood) so that must
correspond to metric plywood sizes? All of the framing looks like
engineered laminated wood. An excellent choice. A known quantity for
precise engineering, very stable, a trait especially important for a
pre-cut house. A la SearsRoebuck back in the beginning of the last
century :)
I mentioned vertical (wood) siding when I saw the double row of
horizontal blocking. They would be needed for nailing off the siding.
Otherwise here blocking isn't used or is mounted flat as it creates a
thermal bridge. The only time it would be required here is fire block
in cavities over 10 feet or between floors when balloon framing. Maybe
has to do with shear requirements.
Some other things I noticed was the blocking in the corners and at the
end of interior walls. These are usually left open for insulation. Can't
tell if the exterior headers are solid or not. One place we typically
add framing where you don't is to double window sills. This facilitates
nailing window trim depending on the interior trim detail. Curious to
see the detail between the framing and the brick cladding.
Re doug fir shiplap. Is this NZ grown DF? I hear it grows like a weed
"down" there.
Keep us updated
M
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