The M9 has no AA filter whatsoever, but I've not had suffficient experience
to know anything other than the raw files look razor sharp.
Bill Pearce
----- Original Message -----
From: "C.H.Ling" <ch_photo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Olympus Camera Discussion" <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 9:22 AM
Subject: Re: [OM] ( OM ) Sharpening digital images
> The degree of sharpening is very depending on the camera, Olympus require
> more due to the strong AA filter. 5D II has a weaker AA filter (I heard
> the
> 5D is even weaker) so it require less and in most cases I just avoid
> sharpen
> the image to reduce the artifacts - such as halo and change of relative
> brightness of micro details. Sharpening and LCE will affect the original
> mood of the image so I will limit them to minimum.
>
> For sharpen between resize, I remember we had a discussion before, this is
> especially useful for soft image such as the one due to focus shift, I had
> lots of problem with the E-1 and E-300 event shots. For those problem
> images
> I will apply a strong sharpen at the orignal size before performing resize
> (or more than one time between each resize step), this will reduce the
> sharpening artifact when compared to applying the sharpen on the final
> stage. For Brian's sample, I remember it was also helpful to avoid using
> sharpen on the final stage in order to reduce the jaggies.
>
> C.H.Ling
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Swale"
>
>>A little while ago, somebody stated categorically that images from digital
>> cameras do not need sharpening. Or that's how I remember it, anyhow.
>>
>> My experience is the opposite. I have so far only had Olympus digital
>> cameras, and of these only in the E series.
>>
>> To use one constant measure, I refer to the sharpening/blur tool in
>> Faststone Image Viewer. This runs from 0 to + (I have never looked for
>> the
>> upper limit) to sharpen, and conversely to - (an increasing degree of
>> blur).
>> When sharpening is applied to a jpeg image, the effect can be seen quite
>> rapidly, and it is easy to see if any particular image needs 1, 2, 4 or
>> whatever levels of sharpening, and similarly, but observing the effect on
>> edges such as a mountain ridgeline, it is easy to see if to much
>> sharpening
>> has been applied in any particular instance. In my experience, too much
>> sharpening shows up as a "halo" effect. So, one can undo, and try again.
>>
>> So I have found that (with cameras on tripods) the E-1 images generally
>> need +4 degree, and the E-3 & E-510 about +2 or +3; but sometimes
>> nothing is to be gained by sharpening. Only trial shows this.
>>
>> As far as resizing in steps with a sharpen after each resize, I think it
>> was CH
>> Ling who showed me how to do this and demonstrated what there was to
>> gain, when I was trying to resize this picture for the Olympus Odyssey;
>> just
>> look at all the lines, and with the wrong technique, they all had massive
>> jaggies, even though the lines seem to be curved (they are not - just
>> lots
>> of
>> straight lines).
>> http://www.reflective-moment.com/olympus-odyssey/bswale/picture4.htm
>>
>> Brian Swale.
>
> --
> _________________________________________________________________
> Options: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/listinfo/olympus
> Archives: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/private/olympus/
> Themed Olympus Photo Exhibition: http://www.tope.nl/
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.424 / Virus Database: 270.14.51/2482 - Release Date: 11/05/09
07:37:00
--
_________________________________________________________________
Options: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/listinfo/olympus
Archives: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/private/olympus/
Themed Olympus Photo Exhibition: http://www.tope.nl/
|