Uh, oh! I just realized (checking the eSIF because I've never owned
one) that the T20 doesn't have a bounce head. Not good. Best used in a
bounce grip then but auto mode can't be used on the T20 or T32 because
the sensor moves with the flash. Without a bounce grip or some sort of
improvised bounce reflector you're limited to direct flash. With the
T20 and T32's low profiles in the hot shoe you're into big time red-eye.
The T20's coverage angle is designed for a maximum angle of coverage
equal to a 35mm lens on an OM. So set your E420's focal length to no
less than 1/2 of that or about 17mm. Set the shutter speed to about
1/15 second, ISO to 100 and the aperture according to the shooting
distance read from the calculator panel. Pick a shooting distance that
you can likely maintain in the confines of a room in the house... say 8
feet. The T20's guide number is fixed at 66 feet. Dividing 66 by 8
(what the calculator panel is doing) yields an aperture of 8.25... let's
call if f/9 to the nearest third stop.
Now test the exposure. Drape something white like a shirt or towel over
the back of a chair. Stand 8 feet away and take a test shot. Examine
the exposure for blown highlights. Now adjust for the "real" guide
number. Open the aperture a stop or so until you do see blown
highlights and then back off a bit. Experiment with "dragging the
shutter"... using slower shutter speeds to collect more ambient light.
You may be able to go down to about 1/4 second if there's no fast
subject movement. Recheck for blown highlights after changing the
shutter speed. Also make sure that the shutter speed and aperture in
use are not sufficient for an exposure without assistance from the
flash. Perhaps that was your overexposure problem. If the ambient is
sufficient for a good or near good exposure adding the flash will
definitely result in overexposure.
But my real advice is use a different flash, one with a bounce head.
Dr. Flash
AS wrote:
> I set the camera in manual??! That was the first time I have ever
> used a T-20 for anything. I am not familiar with the ins and outs of
> that flash. Give me some time!
>
>
> --- On Thu, 12/25/08, Chuck Norcutt <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
>
>> From: Chuck Norcutt <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re:
>> [OM] T-20 safe on E? To: "Olympus Camera Discussion"
>> <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Date: Thursday, December 25, 2008,
>> 12:06 AM I think setting to manual overexposes the photo if the
>> photographer hasn't set the camera properly. :-)
>>
>> Dr. Flash
>>
>> AS wrote:
>>> T-20 seems to work fairly well with the E-420.
>> Although I prefer the
>>> T-32. Photographing with the T-20 is a little awkward.
>> Works best in
>>> the first auto setting. Setting to manual completely
>> over-exposes the
>>> photo.
>>>
>>> E-420 handles OK for a little bugger. I think the
>> E-500 had better
>>> feel and build. The 14-42 focuses slowly.
>>>
>>> Interesting tip that I found on a website:
>>>
>>>
>>> "Tip: Although the E-420 has three “official”
>> autofocus points,
>>> here’s a trick that will extend their number and
>> help you in
>>> fast-changing backlit situations: With Live View and
>> Imager AF
>>> active, turn on the camera’s Face Detection mode to
>> extend the AF
>>> area to eleven points and then turn on Shadow
>> Adjustment. With this
>>> particular combination of settings, the camera will
>> track and lock
>>> focus on the subject, and shadow adjustment will
>> automatically extend
>>> the range of visible detail in the shadow areas."
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> --
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>
>
>
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