Thanks. I'll forward your info.
Chuck Norcutt
Moose wrote:
> Chuck Norcutt wrote:
>> It's not clear that any glue was used. I think twine was pressed into the
>> door grooves... common before foam. Not sure what else was done.
>>
> There is indeed foam on the latch end of the door, between the fixed
> latch piece and the 'L'of he door end. The end of the body presses
> gainst it as the door is closed.
>
> The latching pieces are quite thick, sturdy pieces of steel, sort of out
> of character with the task of keeping a light, plastic door closed.
>
> If the foam replacement is too thick and/or too stiff, it would be
> possible for a firm squeeze to allow the latch to snap shut. Yet under
> the excessive outward pressure, the friction between the latch parts
> could be enough to make opening it by simply pulling on the rewind knob
> seem like it requires more force than is safe for the knob.
>
> First thing I'd do is squeeze the back and the end of the body together
> at the opening end, then pull on the rewind knob with that pressure
> applied. You can easily see how much pressure is needed by looking at
> the space between the end of the door and the body on the outside of the
> latch. Twine would be a wrong choice for this use, as it doesn't provide
> the springiness required.
>
> On one with original foam, there is a small gap about the thickness of
> two sheets of paper at the bottom and tapering thinner toward the
> middle. Pressing the parts so there is no gap takes little pressure on
> this one. With that pressure applied to the end of the back, the knob
> comes out most of the way with no resistance, then pulls out about
> another ~2mm against light spring pressure. The latch is then completely
> disengaged, although I'm still holding the door closed. If I then let
> the knob go, the latch is re-engaged without opening the back.
>
> So it's possible to differentiate between the latch being stuck and
> something else holding the door closed.
>
> Moose
>
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