Chuck Norcutt wrote:
> It's not clear that any glue was used. I think twine was pressed into the
> door grooves... common before foam. Not sure what else was done.
>
There is indeed foam on the latch end of the door, between the fixed
latch piece and the 'L'of he door end. The end of the body presses
gainst it as the door is closed.
The latching pieces are quite thick, sturdy pieces of steel, sort of out
of character with the task of keeping a light, plastic door closed.
If the foam replacement is too thick and/or too stiff, it would be
possible for a firm squeeze to allow the latch to snap shut. Yet under
the excessive outward pressure, the friction between the latch parts
could be enough to make opening it by simply pulling on the rewind knob
seem like it requires more force than is safe for the knob.
First thing I'd do is squeeze the back and the end of the body together
at the opening end, then pull on the rewind knob with that pressure
applied. You can easily see how much pressure is needed by looking at
the space between the end of the door and the body on the outside of the
latch. Twine would be a wrong choice for this use, as it doesn't provide
the springiness required.
On one with original foam, there is a small gap about the thickness of
two sheets of paper at the bottom and tapering thinner toward the
middle. Pressing the parts so there is no gap takes little pressure on
this one. With that pressure applied to the end of the back, the knob
comes out most of the way with no resistance, then pulls out about
another ~2mm against light spring pressure. The latch is then completely
disengaged, although I'm still holding the door closed. If I then let
the knob go, the latch is re-engaged without opening the back.
So it's possible to differentiate between the latch being stuck and
something else holding the door closed.
Moose
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