Pretty darn good for the first roll. I especially liked the abstract
pattern of #12. I also liked the man under the tree in #10. I'm
probably the last person who should be giving compositon advice but, in
my opinion, the man under the tree would have been a much more powerful
portrait if he was shifted toward the right side of the frame so that
he's off center to the right, his right leg and foot is fully in the
picture and he's looking at the camera so that his gaze is more into the
open side of the frame.
#10 and several others are outdoor photos in full sun which leads to a
problem of the film and viewing media not being able to capture the full
brightness range. Since you can't capture the whole thing you have to
decide where it's going to fall. Some average? Or will you expose more
for the highlights or the shadows? In the case of the man under the
tree I think the exposure should be for properly exposed skin in the
sun. I think that's probably a good rule for many (but not all) shots
containing people. Without people, such as #1 and #2 you have to decide
what is the main subject or what covers the most area. In #1 I think
the proper exposure should be for the white flower in sunlight. In #2
the main subject and majority of the frame is in shade.
Fortunately, in full sun it's easy to figure out what the correct
exposure is without a meter using the "sunny 16" rule. In full sunlight
from late morning to mid afternoon the correct exposure is f/16 at a
shutter speed which is the inverse of the ISO on the film. You would
likely choose some different aperture for other reasons but you can
adjust the shutter speed from that base exposure. For example, for #10;
to get the exposure correct on the sunlit arms and face the correct
exposure with ISO 100 film would be 1/100 second at f/16. Since you
don't have a 1/100 speed on the camera you'd have to choose 1/125 which
is 1/3 stop faster. Therefore, the adjusted exposure would be 1/125 at
f/11-2/3. For a more pleasing depth of field you might like to shoot
this closer to f/5.6 so you could up the shutter speed by three stops to
1/1000, open the lens to f/5.6 and then open another 1/3 stop to account
for the shutter speed being actually 1/3 stop too fast for the ISO 100 film.
For #2 the main subject and area of the frame is in shade so you need to
open up more. From the base sunny 16 rule exposure, for open shade,
such as the side of a house in shade with open sky above, you need to
open up 3 stops. For heavy shade under trees you need to open up an
additional 2 stops or 5 stops altogether from the sunlit scene. Often
times these rules of thumb will give you a better exposure than that
recommended by your meter. Relfected light meters are easily fooled by
the color and reflectivity of the scene.
Then, if you do scanning and digital manipulations you can start to work
with a whole different set of rules to capture the full dynamic range of
the scene. Assuming you want to do that... which you sometimes don't. :-)
Let's see some more,
Chuck Norcutt
priit@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
> First of all, thanks for the helpful replies about the motor socket cap. I
> had some issues with mail filters so I wasn't even aware I was receiving
> them (list messages were discarded as spam, for a while I was blissfully
> unaware of this but a long silence eventually seemed suspicious, so a
> quick look at the list archives clarified the situation)
>
> Actually, I've been a bit overwhelmed with the amount of traffic since
> then, having time to read maybe half of it :-)
>
> Anyway, I decided to post some pictures from my first roll shot with an
> OM camera. They are not significant in any other way.
>
> http://www.softshark.ee/~priit/13/
>
> p.
>
> ==============================================
> List usage info: http://www.zuikoholic.com
> List nannies: olympusadmin@xxxxxxxxxx
> ==============================================
>
>
==============================================
List usage info: http://www.zuikoholic.com
List nannies: olympusadmin@xxxxxxxxxx
==============================================
|