> I'm not sure what you mean by N+1, N-1.
Contrast expansion/contraction. If you are photographing a soft
scene you can use N+1 development to increase the contrast of
the negative. A harshly lit scene can use N-1 development to
keep the dynamic range within the limits of the film. Depending
on the type of developer, it's essentially over or under
processing coupled with selective metering of the scene. Zone
System 101. See Ansel Adams' "The Negative" for a complete
description. Not all developers do N+1,N-1 development. Some
are push/pull developers.
> Also, how does xtol and Tmax 100 perform
I have no personal experience with that combination.
> Also, Tmax 100 seems to have a red
> anti-halation layer which takes some washing. Someone told me
> that if I
> saw red wash water I was not fixing properly. What's your
> thoughts?
You have an anti-halation layer and a sensitizing dye in
fabricated grain films. The anti-halation layer actually comes
out pretty easily. It's the sensitizing dye that is really tough
to get out. There are a couple things on the market that will
clear the sensitizing dye better, but generally just fix until
it's cleared and wash well. The published fixing times rarely,
if ever, clear all the dye. The typical method of film fixing
is to fix until clear then double that time. So, if the film
clears in three minutes, fix for six.
> What's a good non Ilford 400 speed + developer combo?
Hmm. There are several good developer options (I'm still married
to Delta 400/DD-X), but Tri-X and Acros come to mind as good
films. I'm sticking with Delta 400/DD-X until the very end,
though. Not sure what I'm going to do about 4x5. I might just
decide to sell that camera. :(
Hmm? FS: 1964 Crown Graphic with Graflex Optar F4.7 135mm
lens. Excellent condition. Includes four one-year old holders.
Has the top-mount cammed rangefinder/viewfinder...
AG
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