The recommendations John just made hold true for ALL OM bodies except
the OM-1(n):
1. 357
2. SR44W Yes, the W does make a difference.
---- look and sound the same, but aren't
-----------------------------------------------------
3. Other silver oxide, but they generally either can't stand up to the
high drain requirements and/or have poor discharge curves. They will not
last as long or be as reliable. They may also lead to intermirritant
lockup or other crazy-making symptome that may make you think something
is wrong with the body because battery check says ok, but the batteries
aren't really because they are the wrong ones.
---------- emergency only, get good batteries ASAP and put these to some
other use. --------------------
Anything alkaline, including the very common LR44 and A76 that may even
say on the pack that they replace 357, SR44, etc. Maybe in some uses,
BUT NOT OMs!
Anything lithium, the 3v double height things like CR1 or 3N often sold
as "Photo" batteries. Maybe in some uses, BUT NOT OMs!
Many of us have bought parts bodies that had nothing wrong with them but
alkaline or lithium batteries in them, leading the owners to conclude
they were in need of repair. Put in a couple of 357s, body is fine and
you have to go looking for another body to part out. Anybody need an
OM-10, an OM-G, I have extras I ended up with this way. Drop me a line
off list.
This is the single most important thing to be learned on this list.
Clear enough?
Moose
Ali Shah wrote:
>I received an OM-2S with the "lithium single cell\' John mentione earlier.
>Is that battery a NO NO for the OM-2S as well?
>
Yes, dispose of it properly
> What do you suggest is the best for the OM-2S?
>
See above.
Moose
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