The Prism button lights up the LCD. The 5 pin connection does have a threaded
cap, I lost mine. The threads by the hinge are for the Grip, which I recommend
highly.
M.E.Bachofen
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
On 1/21/02 at 6:46 PM Wayne Culberson wrote:
>Thanks John,
>I'm always impressed with the thoroughness of your answers. I'd given up
>trying to locate a self timer, and turning off the beeping is definitely
>a nice feature to know about.
>I couldn't find anything that the button on the side of the prism did,
>and still can't. Maybe the lighting feature for the viewfinder is burnt
>out on mine?
>It came with a little cap on the PC connection, but the 'five pin
>connection'?? looks as if it should have a little threaded cap. Is this
>right?
>The little threaded socket by the hinge, looks like another cable
>release perhaps?
>Mine has the green flash ready light I've read about. Is that a concern?
>Other than that, it seems somewhat like my OMPC as far as functions.
>Olympus got a nice hit on the asa/compensation dial on this one, too.
>Thanks, Wayne Culberson
>
>
>"John A. Lind" wrote:
>>
>> At 16:11 1/21/02, you wrote:
>> >The "bay place" OM 2s came today. And I think it is more than I can
>> >figure out by guessing. It came with lr44's, which I exchanged for 2
>> >76s', and it powered up fine. But it is obviously way more complicated
>> >than any of my other OM's. Maybe I'm in over my head??
>> >Is there a site online that I can get instuctions for the OM2s that is
>> >not in pdf form. My old computer won't handle it.
>> >It really is almost mint, along with a 50/1.8, and t20. And for the
>> >first time I now have a calculator panel for the t20.
>> >Wayne
>>
>> Wayne,
>> First thing you need to know is the LCD panel inside the viewfinder will
>> *not* power up unless you have the shutter speed ring in one of the
>"blue"
>> (X-sync) or black shutter speeds. There is a very tiny button near the
>PC
>> socket. By depressing it you can rotate the shutter speed ring into one
>of
>> the mechanical "red" 1/60th or B shutter speeds. Doing so *immediately*
>> turns off the viewfinder display and it won't come back on until the
>> shutter speed ring is on one of the "electronic" shutter speeds.
>>
>> The ambient backlighting of the viewfinder LCD panel comes through the
>> small thin white panel on the right front of the body. Ensure you don't
>> block this with your fingers or a camera strap. This shouldn't normally
>> happen, but I've gotten my fingers over it a few times using odd-ball
>> bracing against solid objects for long shutter speeds.
>>
>> On the upper right side of the prism is another button. This activates a
>> viewfinder lamp for a few seconds and can be used (*sparingly*) if it's
>too
>> dark to see the backlit display with ambient light. Like the LCD panel,
>it
>> is also totally deactivated in one of the "red" shutter speeds.
>>
>> I store mine in one of the two "red" shutter speeds. It keeps an
>> accidental partial depression of the shutter release, or depression of
>the
>> viewfinder backlight from activating them. When I first use it (by
>> rotating the shutter speed ring), I often rotate the mode switch to the
>> battery check position and then to the desired mode. This activates the
>> display. It can also be activated with a careful partial depression of
>the
>> shutter release.
>>
>> On the front around the red LED is the self-timer switch. The small tab
>on
>> a ring around the LED housing is the switch. Gently pull up slightly on
>> the tab to rotate it left or right; it will turn about 30 degrees or so
>in
>> either direction. As you're holding the camera, to the right turns on
>the
>> self-timer. To the left turns *off* the beeper (which I find an annoying
>> battery-drain). Unless I'm using the timer, it stays to the left.
>>
>> Program Mode (which I never use) requires setting the lens to the
>smallest
>> aperture you are willing to let the camera use. Most Program Mode users
>> simply stop the lens down completely; you can influence the Program Mode
>to
>> use wider apertures and faster shutter speeds by not stopping the lens
>down
>> completely. Otherwise, it runs on a single program (no biasing).
>>
>> In "Auto" it operates like an OM-4 without the spot metering, or
>> highlight/shadow metering biasing. In "Manual" the meter is spot *only*
>> (with 1-13 or 2-13 center spot coverage) so meter with it accordingly.
>>
>> The OM-2s is very much a cousin of the OM-4 and it's why I have one as a
>> backup for it. In general operation it works and feels the same.
>>
>> -- John
>>
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