Thanks John,
I'm always impressed with the thoroughness of your answers. I'd given up
trying to locate a self timer, and turning off the beeping is definitely
a nice feature to know about.
I couldn't find anything that the button on the side of the prism did,
and still can't. Maybe the lighting feature for the viewfinder is burnt
out on mine?
It came with a little cap on the PC connection, but the 'five pin
connection'?? looks as if it should have a little threaded cap. Is this
right?
The little threaded socket by the hinge, looks like another cable
release perhaps?
Mine has the green flash ready light I've read about. Is that a concern?
Other than that, it seems somewhat like my OMPC as far as functions.
Olympus got a nice hit on the asa/compensation dial on this one, too.
Thanks, Wayne Culberson
"John A. Lind" wrote:
>
> At 16:11 1/21/02, you wrote:
> >The "bay place" OM 2s came today. And I think it is more than I can
> >figure out by guessing. It came with lr44's, which I exchanged for 2
> >76s', and it powered up fine. But it is obviously way more complicated
> >than any of my other OM's. Maybe I'm in over my head??
> >Is there a site online that I can get instuctions for the OM2s that is
> >not in pdf form. My old computer won't handle it.
> >It really is almost mint, along with a 50/1.8, and t20. And for the
> >first time I now have a calculator panel for the t20.
> >Wayne
>
> Wayne,
> First thing you need to know is the LCD panel inside the viewfinder will
> *not* power up unless you have the shutter speed ring in one of the "blue"
> (X-sync) or black shutter speeds. There is a very tiny button near the PC
> socket. By depressing it you can rotate the shutter speed ring into one of
> the mechanical "red" 1/60th or B shutter speeds. Doing so *immediately*
> turns off the viewfinder display and it won't come back on until the
> shutter speed ring is on one of the "electronic" shutter speeds.
>
> The ambient backlighting of the viewfinder LCD panel comes through the
> small thin white panel on the right front of the body. Ensure you don't
> block this with your fingers or a camera strap. This shouldn't normally
> happen, but I've gotten my fingers over it a few times using odd-ball
> bracing against solid objects for long shutter speeds.
>
> On the upper right side of the prism is another button. This activates a
> viewfinder lamp for a few seconds and can be used (*sparingly*) if it's too
> dark to see the backlit display with ambient light. Like the LCD panel, it
> is also totally deactivated in one of the "red" shutter speeds.
>
> I store mine in one of the two "red" shutter speeds. It keeps an
> accidental partial depression of the shutter release, or depression of the
> viewfinder backlight from activating them. When I first use it (by
> rotating the shutter speed ring), I often rotate the mode switch to the
> battery check position and then to the desired mode. This activates the
> display. It can also be activated with a careful partial depression of the
> shutter release.
>
> On the front around the red LED is the self-timer switch. The small tab on
> a ring around the LED housing is the switch. Gently pull up slightly on
> the tab to rotate it left or right; it will turn about 30 degrees or so in
> either direction. As you're holding the camera, to the right turns on the
> self-timer. To the left turns *off* the beeper (which I find an annoying
> battery-drain). Unless I'm using the timer, it stays to the left.
>
> Program Mode (which I never use) requires setting the lens to the smallest
> aperture you are willing to let the camera use. Most Program Mode users
> simply stop the lens down completely; you can influence the Program Mode to
> use wider apertures and faster shutter speeds by not stopping the lens down
> completely. Otherwise, it runs on a single program (no biasing).
>
> In "Auto" it operates like an OM-4 without the spot metering, or
> highlight/shadow metering biasing. In "Manual" the meter is spot *only*
> (with 1-13 or 2-13 center spot coverage) so meter with it accordingly.
>
> The OM-2s is very much a cousin of the OM-4 and it's why I have one as a
> backup for it. In general operation it works and feels the same.
>
> -- John
>
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