At 16:11 1/21/02, you wrote:
The "bay place" OM 2s came today. And I think it is more than I can
figure out by guessing. It came with lr44's, which I exchanged for 2
76s', and it powered up fine. But it is obviously way more complicated
than any of my other OM's. Maybe I'm in over my head??
Is there a site online that I can get instuctions for the OM2s that is
not in pdf form. My old computer won't handle it.
It really is almost mint, along with a 50/1.8, and t20. And for the
first time I now have a calculator panel for the t20.
Wayne
Wayne,
First thing you need to know is the LCD panel inside the viewfinder will
*not* power up unless you have the shutter speed ring in one of the "blue"
(X-sync) or black shutter speeds. There is a very tiny button near the PC
socket. By depressing it you can rotate the shutter speed ring into one of
the mechanical "red" 1/60th or B shutter speeds. Doing so *immediately*
turns off the viewfinder display and it won't come back on until the
shutter speed ring is on one of the "electronic" shutter speeds.
The ambient backlighting of the viewfinder LCD panel comes through the
small thin white panel on the right front of the body. Ensure you don't
block this with your fingers or a camera strap. This shouldn't normally
happen, but I've gotten my fingers over it a few times using odd-ball
bracing against solid objects for long shutter speeds.
On the upper right side of the prism is another button. This activates a
viewfinder lamp for a few seconds and can be used (*sparingly*) if it's too
dark to see the backlit display with ambient light. Like the LCD panel, it
is also totally deactivated in one of the "red" shutter speeds.
I store mine in one of the two "red" shutter speeds. It keeps an
accidental partial depression of the shutter release, or depression of the
viewfinder backlight from activating them. When I first use it (by
rotating the shutter speed ring), I often rotate the mode switch to the
battery check position and then to the desired mode. This activates the
display. It can also be activated with a careful partial depression of the
shutter release.
On the front around the red LED is the self-timer switch. The small tab on
a ring around the LED housing is the switch. Gently pull up slightly on
the tab to rotate it left or right; it will turn about 30 degrees or so in
either direction. As you're holding the camera, to the right turns on the
self-timer. To the left turns *off* the beeper (which I find an annoying
battery-drain). Unless I'm using the timer, it stays to the left.
Program Mode (which I never use) requires setting the lens to the smallest
aperture you are willing to let the camera use. Most Program Mode users
simply stop the lens down completely; you can influence the Program Mode to
use wider apertures and faster shutter speeds by not stopping the lens down
completely. Otherwise, it runs on a single program (no biasing).
In "Auto" it operates like an OM-4 without the spot metering, or
highlight/shadow metering biasing. In "Manual" the meter is spot *only*
(with 1-13 or 2-13 center spot coverage) so meter with it accordingly.
The OM-2s is very much a cousin of the OM-4 and it's why I have one as a
backup for it. In general operation it works and feels the same.
-- John
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