I don't know what tripod/head combination you are using Tris, but mine
(and I would suggest yours) are anything but rock steady. (BTW I am using
a Manfrotto 3021 W/med Giotto ball head.) I would suggest that if you
really want to look at this logically you do some actual tests. The first
I would suggest is to mount your camera and longest lens on the tripod and
tap the the lens, watch how long it takes for the vibrations to settle
down. I think you will find it a real eye opener.
I think you might be suprised by how steady someone can hold things,
especially with the aid of an additional support.
After that test, you may find it advisable to try a few tests with and
without a cable release! FWIW I have found that with the long lenses, the
WORST method FOR ME is to use a cable release! The absolute best is to use
the OM4T self timer/mirror prefire method (when possible) Using the
Olympus suggested method does give me better results than a cable release.
What actually seems to work best is to use the Olympus method in
combination with a motor drive.
I have thought about doing some experiments with draping a beanbag over
the lens and testing with and without a cable release.
One thing about logic is that is rarely, if ever, a good substitute for
empirical knowledge.
Jim Couch
John's suggestion to droop some dead weight off the hook of the tripod's
center column made sense--that's what those hooks are for. But to use your
hands to steady the tripod strikes me as errant behavior, most especially
for long exposures, which is the only reason I ever take my tripod along
with me as a rule. As I noted, in a wind a case might be made for adding
gentle pressure to the assembly. though even here I'd recommend applying
this pressure to the tripod, not the camera body or lens--say, a third of
the down the legs.
Sure, a long telephoto will vibrate more than a wide angle, no doubt about
that. But if the tripod assembly is sturdy, and if the camera and lens
weight is evenly distributed (more or less) they both will soon enough stop
vibrating and you'll be all set to take great pictures. But the argument
put forward was mainly about absorbing mirror shock, and while one's hands
might indeed serve this purpose, at bottom all would be lost, as those same
hands are bound to introduce more actual movement to the entire assembly.
You mention the motor drive. I always have a MD on my bodies. The only
reason I wouldn't have one attached is because I'd sent one in for repair,
and in that case I'd go to one of my Winder backups--assuming the other two
bodies were unavailable (might be loaded with the wrong film, for example).
These drives not only add weight but increased structural integrity--no
small item for working in crowds, by the way--which probably helps in some
small way with shake in mind, though I doubt one could measure the
difference easily with the resultant image.
As for my equipment: I currently use a Gitzo 1377 ballhead on top of a
Gitzo 2228 tripod. Mirror lock-up via the self-timer I have already
addressed, and I agree that if conditions allow with re to the timed
exposure then that's the way to proceed.
As for tests: if I get my focus to tack all's well, and I never lay a hand
on my camera. I have braced the tripod manually, as described above, but I
never touch the camera proper, much less the lens. To repeat: you'd be much
better served to go the beanbag route with camera shake in mind, though
with this in mind I it just might be than an even better approach is a
water balloon that's been given time to "settle down."
Finally, if you refuse to come into these situations with a logical bent
it's unlikely you'll make logical sense of this "empirical knowledge" you
speak to. Rather it's much more likely that you will "see" whatever pleases
you afterward with regard to picture quality. And please don't blame me for
that unwelcome message--that's just the way life tends to work.
Anyway, one more time: you guys do what you want. <g>
Tris
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