At 00:57 6/22/01, Oben Candemir wrote:
What struck me as difficult and the reason for my initial post was that I
think the *Panning* approach will give distortions in the final stitched
result. The frames at the ends will be further away from the camera than
the centre ones but maybe this is not noticeable; the truth is I haven't tried.
See my earlier postings with some tips. The site with the best tutorials
I've found for stitched rotational panoramics:
http://www.panoguide.com/
It's not that hard to do complete 360 panos. The software for it "warps"
the images to stitch them together and "blends" the seams. You can see
some of my first attempts at this using a 28/3.5 here:
http://johnlind.tripod.com/360gallery/canalwalk/canalwalk360gallery.html
Notes:
1. The 28/3.5 used for these has significant falloff; one of the reasons I
quit using it for panoramics; also sold it some time ago.
2. One of the critical parts for accurate stitching is having all the
scans exactly the same size (portion of the frame). Since I do not have a
film scanner, they were done by requesting Picture CD's with
processing. Kodak doesn't really care if exactly the same amount of each
frame is scanned. This created a few problems in stitching, most of which
were overcome (emphasis on most).
Tip #7:
Use a lens with low falloff at a narrow aperture to maximize DOF. People
tend to expect everything in a panoramic to be in sharp focus.
The technique I was thinking of was finding a position across from a
panorama you wished to take and then shooting a frame. Moving sideways by
a calculated amount according to field of view of the lens. Taking another
frame. And repeating this till the desired number of frames was taken. The
logic is that all the frames of the landscape would be perpendicular to
the film and be easier to match from frame to frame. Maybe its not
necessary? This assumes that you have several positions from which you can
take the pictures and they would need to be equidistant from the subject.
Maybe too much trouble for what its worth? Maybe practically impossible?
This is not possible. Closer objects will shift against distant objects in
the background. You won't be able to put them together.
You can do this with a shift lens though, and I have done several of them
using the 35/2.8 Zuiko Shift. They stitch together perfectly if the scans
of them are done properly. It's not a superwide panoramic, but it is much
wider than a normal frame. You can see my first several attempts at that
here (a mirror of my main site):
http://members.nbci.com/_XMCM/johnlind/panoramic/shiftgallery/shiftgallery.html
I think I'll try the panning approach as it seems the easier technique.
Any advice on the other method I have thought of would be appreciated
including any practical techniques anyone may have.
Thanks
Oben
< This message was delivered via the Olympus Mailing List >
< For questions, mailto:owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >
< Web Page: http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright/olympuslist.html >
|