Oben,
For stitched panoramic basics, see this site:
http://www.panoguide.com/
IMO PhotoShop can be used, but some of the dedicated pano stitching
software is better for it. See the reviews of various software on the site.
Some tips:
1. Most use very short focal length lenses for this with the camera
mounted vertically.
2. Axis of rotation should be through the rear lens node, and it's _not_
where the tripod screw is located, but usually slightly forward of
that. Most of us use a QR sliding plate on top of the tripod or existing
tripod head to move the rotation axis to the rear lens node. Field methods
for finding the rear lens node of a specific lens are explained on the site
(doesn't require a lens bench).
3. Having a means to ensure the camera is dead level throughout its
rotation is very important. My tripod head has built-in leveling bubbles;
you can also get accessory ones if yours does not.
4. Unlike the sweetness of dawn to early morning and late afternoon to
dusk for most outdoor photography, a 360 pano done during those times is
almost certain to have one or two shots directly into the sun (with
attendant aperture flare at the least). 360 panos are often better done
during late morning or early afternoon with the sun still reasonably
high. If you do manage to keep the sun out of all the frames, pay close
attention to shading the lens in the sun direction and always use a lens
hood (unless you're using a fisheye)!
5. Most will set a manual exposure. AE is very risky when shooting into
the sun, even if it's outside the frame.
Hope this helps,
-- John
At 04:06 6/20/01, Oben Candemir asked:
Could someone explain how best to shoot a multiple shot panorama and
stitch them together for the most seamless effect. I know the shift lens
technique but am really asking how to get large multi-shot panoramas using
a single prime lens. Which focal length to use, ideal location to shoot
from... how far one must move laterally for sequential shots etc. I know
exposure value due to changed lighting, cloud coverage and position, are
always a confounders but assume that lighting and all else are constant.
If anyone has nice and simple information on how to achieve this then I
would love to know.
Thanks in advance.
Oben
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