Thanks to Mike and everyone who have provided some really good information.
To fill the 100-300mm gap, I picked up an OM 2XA Teleconverter which was on
a shelf in my local camera shop ($150). This with my 135/2.8 should give me
the 270/5.6 range I needed.
I'll post any shots that come out. I'm always amazed at the knowledge pool
of this group and the willingness to share and help. Does this make us all
co-dependent Zuikohaulics?
Mike V.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Motor Sport Visions Photography" <msvphoto@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mikev@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 7:53 PM
Subject: Re: [OM] Race Car Photography
> Did someone mention racecar photography? <perk>
>
> Seriously, I apologize for weighing in so late. I am trying very hard to
> catch up on e-mails since returning from a four-day vacation combined
> with a trip to shoot NASCAR at the CA Speedway last weekend (for some
> results go to: http://motorsportvisions.com/nascar_ca01/index.htm ) I
> hope you get this message in time for it to help.
>
> Mike V writes: (hey wait, I'm a Mike V too...)
>
> << What is a good recommended kit for this type of event?. >>
>
> My experience on ovals is very limited actualy and I know we have at
> least one other racing photographer who lurks here (I hope still) who
> shoots primarily NASCAR so he has more oval experience than I. For
> Fontana (a big 2 mile oval like Michigan) I took two bodies (OM-4T and
> OM-2S) with winders (sadly the MD2 I just bought myself for my b-day
> last month arrived defective and went back to the seller), Tamron SP
> 80-200/2.8 LD, Tamron SP 1.4X converter, Zuiko 350/2.8, Zuiko 1.4XA
> converter, a Zuiko 18/3.5 (thanks to Tom Scales' generosity--thank you
> Tom!), a mono-pod (don't leave home without it) all packed into my
> Lowepro mini-trekker. If you look at the shots I have in the above
> linked gallery, you'll see I used everything I had.
>
> What was kinda lacking was a good std. range zoom and fill flash for
> victory circle, etc. A F-280 (if it's powerful enough) would have been a
> good idea, as would a std. range zoom.
>
> << I have the 16/3.5 FE, 28/2.8, 40/2, 50/1.4 90/2 135/2.8, 35-80/2.8,
> 75-150/4 and the 500/8 lenses and several bodies. >>
>
> Nice kit! For sure take the 16. Get as high up as you can in the stands
> and get the entire speedway. It's fun. You may as well take the 28
> though with the 35-80 and the 16 you may never need it. By all means
> take the 75-150 and the 500. Unfoprtunately, what is seriously lacking
> here is a ~100-300 range zoom which, IMO, is a must. If you can borrow
> something to fill that void, do so. Two bodies should be fine. Winders
> or MDs are good to have.
>
> The biggest problem I had at CA Speedway is the way the track is
> oriented, the only side view (panned) shots available with no fence in
> the way (infield turns 1 and 4) were straight into the sun (!) so I
> didn't even bother. Don't be afraid to shoot through the fence. My
> shutter speeds were too high but last time I tried this it was at the
> CART race there and I misjudged just how much slower NASCAR cars are.
>
> << Is a monopod practical? >>
>
> For that 500mm it will be a must have. Get up high out by turn 1 to
> catch the train coming down to the line for starts and restarts. Also a
> nice location to get everyone lined up pre-race on pit lane. In my case,
> I can't even use my 350/2.8 unless I have a monopod.
>
> << What about film and recommended techniques (most of the things I take
> pictures of are not going
> 200 mph!). >>
>
> I shoot Fuji Provia F. It is a very popular choice for racing
> photographers. As far as techniques go, it is all pre-focus and timing
> really. One good suggestion is to go shoot practice with cheap print
> film, experiment a lot, and get it one-hour processed to look at before
> going back the next day. This is commonly done by professionals who are
> shooting a new course for the first time and was offered to me as a tip
> recently.
>
> For panned shots pick an area that has as pleasing a background as
> possible, pick a reference point to release the shutter at as it flashes
> by (from your pan), and pre-focus on the track surface around the spot
> you see the side of the cars closest to you passing by (they'll all be
> in pretty much the same spot). Begin your pans as soon as you can pick
> the car up and smoothly swing your upper body through an arc that
> matches the car's movement. Release at your pre-determined release point
> and keep smoothly panning. Follow-through is crucial just like a golf or
> baseball swing.
>
> For straight on or 3/4 view pans the technique all boils down to
> pre-focus and timing the shutter release point. Obviously, all of the
> above takes tons of practice. That is why it is a great idea to get some
> results back the first day so you can apply your self-critique to
> improve on the second day.
>
> Shutter speed selection depends on the situation. 1/500 - 1/1000 will
> freeze the cars just fine for straigh-on shots...shutter release point
> timing is most critical here. Anywhere from as slow as 1/15 to as fast
> as 1/250 or even 1/500 is appropriate for panning depending on car
> speed, lens focal length, and subject distance. For the speeds CART will
> run at Naz (be sure to listen to Mark Knopfler's Speedway at Nazereth
> song a bunch...it'll help the mood!) with a 200mm (or the 75-150 if you
> can get close enough) I'm guessing ~1/125 to 1/250 will be the
> approriate shutter speed range for good panned shots. Panned shots are
> always a trade-off between nice blurs in the background vs. good detail
> in the cars. I'm noticing more and more "cheating" in Photoshop with a
> "speed" effect on the background these days. Experiment and practice.
> Review your results quickly and make corrections based on them
>
> Above all, have fun and I wish that this Mike V were there to join
> you!!!! (And I hope another Mike who is the home town hero can get his
> first win with his new team...)
>
> Mike Veglia
> Motor Sport Visions Photography
> http://www.motorsportvisions.com
>
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