Did someone mention racecar photography? <perk>
Seriously, I apologize for weighing in so late. I am trying very hard to
catch up on e-mails since returning from a four-day vacation combined
with a trip to shoot NASCAR at the CA Speedway last weekend (for some
results go to: http://motorsportvisions.com/nascar_ca01/index.htm ) I
hope you get this message in time for it to help.
Mike V writes: (hey wait, I'm a Mike V too...)
<< What is a good recommended kit for this type of event?. >>
My experience on ovals is very limited actualy and I know we have at
least one other racing photographer who lurks here (I hope still) who
shoots primarily NASCAR so he has more oval experience than I. For
Fontana (a big 2 mile oval like Michigan) I took two bodies (OM-4T and
OM-2S) with winders (sadly the MD2 I just bought myself for my b-day
last month arrived defective and went back to the seller), Tamron SP
80-200/2.8 LD, Tamron SP 1.4X converter, Zuiko 350/2.8, Zuiko 1.4XA
converter, a Zuiko 18/3.5 (thanks to Tom Scales' generosity--thank you
Tom!), a mono-pod (don't leave home without it) all packed into my
Lowepro mini-trekker. If you look at the shots I have in the above
linked gallery, you'll see I used everything I had.
What was kinda lacking was a good std. range zoom and fill flash for
victory circle, etc. A F-280 (if it's powerful enough) would have been a
good idea, as would a std. range zoom.
<< I have the 16/3.5 FE, 28/2.8, 40/2, 50/1.4 90/2 135/2.8, 35-80/2.8,
75-150/4 and the 500/8 lenses and several bodies. >>
Nice kit! For sure take the 16. Get as high up as you can in the stands
and get the entire speedway. It's fun. You may as well take the 28
though with the 35-80 and the 16 you may never need it. By all means
take the 75-150 and the 500. Unfoprtunately, what is seriously lacking
here is a ~100-300 range zoom which, IMO, is a must. If you can borrow
something to fill that void, do so. Two bodies should be fine. Winders
or MDs are good to have.
The biggest problem I had at CA Speedway is the way the track is
oriented, the only side view (panned) shots available with no fence in
the way (infield turns 1 and 4) were straight into the sun (!) so I
didn't even bother. Don't be afraid to shoot through the fence. My
shutter speeds were too high but last time I tried this it was at the
CART race there and I misjudged just how much slower NASCAR cars are.
<< Is a monopod practical? >>
For that 500mm it will be a must have. Get up high out by turn 1 to
catch the train coming down to the line for starts and restarts. Also a
nice location to get everyone lined up pre-race on pit lane. In my case,
I can't even use my 350/2.8 unless I have a monopod.
<< What about film and recommended techniques (most of the things I take
pictures of are not going
200 mph!). >>
I shoot Fuji Provia F. It is a very popular choice for racing
photographers. As far as techniques go, it is all pre-focus and timing
really. One good suggestion is to go shoot practice with cheap print
film, experiment a lot, and get it one-hour processed to look at before
going back the next day. This is commonly done by professionals who are
shooting a new course for the first time and was offered to me as a tip
recently.
For panned shots pick an area that has as pleasing a background as
possible, pick a reference point to release the shutter at as it flashes
by (from your pan), and pre-focus on the track surface around the spot
you see the side of the cars closest to you passing by (they'll all be
in pretty much the same spot). Begin your pans as soon as you can pick
the car up and smoothly swing your upper body through an arc that
matches the car's movement. Release at your pre-determined release point
and keep smoothly panning. Follow-through is crucial just like a golf or
baseball swing.
For straight on or 3/4 view pans the technique all boils down to
pre-focus and timing the shutter release point. Obviously, all of the
above takes tons of practice. That is why it is a great idea to get some
results back the first day so you can apply your self-critique to
improve on the second day.
Shutter speed selection depends on the situation. 1/500 - 1/1000 will
freeze the cars just fine for straigh-on shots...shutter release point
timing is most critical here. Anywhere from as slow as 1/15 to as fast
as 1/250 or even 1/500 is appropriate for panning depending on car
speed, lens focal length, and subject distance. For the speeds CART will
run at Naz (be sure to listen to Mark Knopfler's Speedway at Nazereth
song a bunch...it'll help the mood!) with a 200mm (or the 75-150 if you
can get close enough) I'm guessing ~1/125 to 1/250 will be the
approriate shutter speed range for good panned shots. Panned shots are
always a trade-off between nice blurs in the background vs. good detail
in the cars. I'm noticing more and more "cheating" in Photoshop with a
"speed" effect on the background these days. Experiment and practice.
Review your results quickly and make corrections based on them
Above all, have fun and I wish that this Mike V were there to join
you!!!! (And I hope another Mike who is the home town hero can get his
first win with his new team...)
Mike Veglia
Motor Sport Visions Photography
http://www.motorsportvisions.com
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