"skipwilliams@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx" wrote:
> If you can, I'd also get whole rooms, in addition to architectural details.
> That's what I've done on the pictures I've done for contractor jobs.
>
> I typically use either a 24/2.8, 21/3.5, or rarely a 15/4.5 (Voigtlander) for
> interiors.
>
> If the room is too wide for one of those lenses, I will take two pictures
> with the Zuiko 16/3.5 fisheye, unwrap the fisheye distortion, cut the
> rectilinear portion out, and stitch the two images together using Panorama
> Tools.
>
> A 35/2.8 Shift is the preferred external lens. Normal rectilinear lenses
> typically get too much keystoning perspective distortion. Alternatively, you
> could use a 24, 21, or 18 and cut out the top section of the image, keeping
> the back of the camera vertical to avoid perspective distortion.
>
Would definitely agree with most of the above; I'm an architect myself and
prefer taking my own photos. Most of the time (950r so) I use my 18/3.5:
minimal distortion unless you deliberately tilt the lens way out of plumb or do
something stupid. Another thing, interiors are pretty forgiving of
converging verticals but architectural (external) shots have to be A-OK with
all verticals parallel. Here's where the 35 shift really comes it's it's own.
As I try to show the expanse of the room, 24's or 28's are out of question- by
showing the room in segments, the reduce the impact. Taking this argument to
it's logical conclusion, I did once try a fisheye but the distortion was so
horrific, I didn't have the heart to show those shots to my
client.
Colour correction- that's what I usually stumble over: try balancing daylight
with Halogen and sometimes fluorescent; this is one trick I have never mastered
so I usually try to filter out the fluorescent and live with the rest.
RK
PS: I purchased both the lenses mentioned above from fellow digest member,
Sunil Manga of New Delhi, India and would just like to add that these lenses
were exactly as described (a shade better, actually!)
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