I've used this stuff also in scale modeling, but let me warn all who want to
repair a foot- it's far better to spend your time replacing the foot than
farkling around gluing it. I've tried glues and they just don't last, the
foot breaks along the same place. I've tried the resin build-up along the
crack, and it seems it built it up too much, couldn't get the foot into the
shoe, the tolerance was too close. Of course, your actual success depends on
(maybe) the right glue and the location of the crack, but there's just too
much stress put on the foot when you lock it into the shoe, IMO. That's been
MY experience, as I say, your success may vary, but I've learned not to
expect lasting results for the repair.
George S.
scott@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> I can vouch for this stuff, also. Very well loved by scale modelers, where
> plastics rule.
>
> ---
> Scott Gomez
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John F Wheeler [mailto:wheelej@xxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 22:52
> To: 'olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx'
> Subject: RE: Re: [OM] T-32 Foot crack
>
>
> Andrew, Vaughan,
>
> I thought I saw a post from Tom Scales detailing the availability of a
> spare part for this foot. I think another post said that the replacement of
> same may be a little sexy (engineering term meaning complex).
>
> Anyway, I have been using an adhesive obtained from Hobbyco in Sydney
> (quite some time ago) which may just fit the bill. It's from a company in
> US called Plastruct, Inc and the front of the label identifies it as a
> 'Plastic Weld Cement'.
>
> It's described as a 'Multi-purpose, evaporative formula for bonding
> Plastruct ABS, Styene, Butyrate, Acrylic (Lucite or Plexiglas) to each
> other or in combination'. I've used it for repairing those plastic moulded
> parts on dot matrix and squirty printers that always seem to break at the
> corners etc. It works by capillary action by simply holding the parts
> together and brushing the material along the crack. This forms a
> 'continuous, solid weld as strong as surrounding plastic'. I've found it
> quite strong particularly with a twelve-hour curing period.
>
> John.
>
>
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