At 08:29 AM 11/5/99 +0000, you wrote:
>At 04:56 PM 11/4/99 -0600, you wrote:
>>Re-tinning the contacts sounds like a lot of work for marginal benefit! I
>would
>>suggest getting some 'De-Oxit' from Fargo enterprises
>> http://www.microtools.com ) or some other source, and apply to the well
>>cleaned contacts leaving a thin film. That would probably keep you out of
>>trouble.
>>
>
>a problem with re-tinning is that the heat from the soldering iron could
>melt some of the plastic that supports the contact, making for a worse
>problem than you started with. you'd have to completely disassemble the
>unit so that you had the bare contact in your hands, then you could tin it.
>if it's rusty, you'll have to de-rust it completely otherwise nothing will
>stick to it. I fixed my wife's vivitar flash with a rusty contact with just
>some scotchbrite abrasive pad. no biggie.
Yes, as I recall, I suggested using abrasives and/or methanol or isopropanol
first. As for re-tinning, it's a delicate job, but an appropriate heat-sink
between the contact being re-tinned and any plastic parts can do wonders. (I
use a surgical clamp as a heat-sink, coating the jaws with a little silicone
grease to improve heat transfer.) All this assumes, of course, that you don't
have to work in a restricted physical space. If you can't disassemble your
components and work with them that way, re-tinning -- in fact, even using
abrasives -- becomes problematic.
I tried to use a simple eraser on the end of a pencil to clean the contacts in
the battery compartment of my Winder 2 *without* taking the Winder 2 apart.
What a pain in the ass. Anyways, to make a long story short, my Winder had
bigger problems -- I sent it in to the shop, and after a cleaning and a
replacement circuit board, it's as good as new (it had better be -- cost me
over 400f the price of a new Winder 2!).
Garth
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