>For those who read the first set of *incorrect* instructions . . . here is
>a *corrected* set and an apology for any confusion caused:
>
>Here is how I do it with the same combo of OM-4 and T-20, T-32 *and* F-280
>using TTL OTF mode:
>
>1. Make sure the camera is in Auto mode with the ASA set for the film
>speed you are using, and the EV compensation ring on the ASA dial is set to
>ZERO.
>
>2. Mount the flash to the camera but leave it *OFF*.
>
>3. Aim at your subject, focus, and with the flash unit *OFF*, adjust the
>aperture ring until you get a 1/60th shutter speed.
>
>Note: This is the sync speed for the flash unit and you will also be
>properly exposed without any flash for the scene's ambient lighting.
>
>4. Turn the flash ON to TTL Auto Mode.
>
>Note: This "locks" the camera at 1/60th so the shutter speed cannot change
>and the overall scene will stay properly exposed for ambient lighting.
>
>5. Turn the EV compensation ring (without lifting it) clockwise from -2/3
>to -2 compensation depending on how much fill you want.
>
>Note: The dial moves in 1/3 stop increments. If you are compensating for
>mottled shadowing caused by small tree branches over an otherwise sunlit
>subject, you probably want more fill (-2/3 to -1). If you want only to
>make eyes sparkle and enhance contrast slightly on a deep overcast day, you
>probably want less fill (-1-1/3 to -2). Experience in doing this will
>develop a sense of how much fill *you* want. Everyone's preferences are
>different. This "fools" the TTL OTF metering into thinking the film needs
>less light from the flash.
>
>6. Shoot the number of frames you wish of the subject. Repeat steps 3 - 5
>if ambient lighting changes.
>
>7. Remember to turn the flash OFF and reset the compensation dial to ZERO
>when you are done with fill flash.
>
>To reiterate what you have done. You are using the aperture ring to find a
>proper non-flash exposure at 1/60th second for the overall scene. You are
>then fooling the flash unit and TTL metering combination into thinking you
>need less light. However, the camera will remain locked at 1/60th shutter
>speed as soon as the flash has charged.
>
>I recommend you try this with a victim, er subject , on some non-critical
>photographs and experiment with different fill levels (compensation dial
>settings) both in mottled shade with bright sunlight and under deep
>overcast. Keep records of what you did for each frame and then look at the
>results. You can then choose what settings please you most for your own
>fill-flash work.
>
>Fortunately the OM-2[n, sp] and OM-4[t] can use the TTL Auto mode on the
>T-20, T-32 and T-45. This method should also work if you are using an
>F-280 as its only "auto" mode is TTL Auto. There is a different way to do
>this with a T-20 or T-32 in Normal Auto (using the sensor on the front of
>the flash unit) but it is more complicated and more difficult to control
>how much fill you get.
>
>-- John
Thanks for the posting re: T32 fill flash in daylight.
I think this area of photography (flash control) is the hardest to become
familiar with. Correct fill flash with a T32 and an OM 2n (or above) has
always been a "hit amd miss" exercise with me.
I have till now used my OM2n/T32 on Manual, GN 16 or 32, 1/60 shutter speed
and adjusted the F/Stop according to the distance from the victim. Results
are usually good.
When using your set-up what is the significance of leaving the T32 off
untill the camera settings are made? Wont the OM2n stay on 1/60 if the
viewfinder needle says so, even if the compensation ring is turned? What
effect on the camera does leaving the flash ON or OFF have?
I have an F280 and OM3Ti but have never used them together as a daylight
flash combo. As I dont have a manual for the F280 I dont know the correct
process for setting up for fill flash. But then again I have a manual for
the T32 and it does not explain anything in much detail and certainly not
the procedure you submitted.
Michael.
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