On 3/13/2023 2:14 PM, Wayne Shumaker wrote:
At 3/13/2023 11:29 AM, Moose wrote:
For me, it would be OM-2(n) or OM-4(T(i))
The OM-1 requires a 1.35v battery, which haven't been made for decades, or a
special adapter for a 1.5v battery, which is good, but not perfect. Just too
much hassle, when an OM-2(n) may be used fully manual, if desired.
My favorite is the OM-4 body. Many plain OM-4 bodies have the later circuit installed. For
practical use, those, a "T" or a 'Ti" are all the same. Better auto exposure,
both spot and ESP, than an OM-2.
If the user gets interested in TTL flash, the 2n is better. If they start using
a tripod, the bodies before the 4 series (and OM2000) have no way to control
vibrations from the aperture stop-down mechanism. Self timer on the 4 series
pre-fires mirror and aperture as soon as the shutter release is pressed. The
extra wait is a pain, the results, especially with med-tele and longer lenses
and light and/or metal tripods, much better.
My latest loaner for a student was an E-M5 II. ðŸ˜
Memory Lane Moose
Unfortunately my OM-4 (sn 1,058524) draws the dreaded 400-600uA, while in M60/B
it draws around 20uA. My OM-4T draws about 5uA.
Serial number means little. They may, or may not, have started putting new circuits in late ones, but I've never seen
numbers. It seems Oly replaced circuits in a LOT of OM-4 bodies, because of exactly this drain problem. It was easy to
test, and back when, sellers often noted new circuits.
I had three plain OM-4 bodies, all with the new circuit. One went to Chuck, one has a slipped second curtain and one,
last I checked, was fine. I also have a 4Ti in almost new condition and in brown leather case. Kinda silly, as I doubt
Ill ever actually shoot film with them.
Low Drain Moose
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What if the Hokey Pokey *IS* what it's all about?
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