Re: [OM] Advise sought on flash for E-3 and maybe M5

[Chuck Norcutt]

Pretty much what Moose said.  Google tells me that I bought 2 of the 
Neewer lights Moose linked below almost exactly 2 years ago.  But I have 
never used them except for installing some batteries to see if they 
work.  My only concern at the time was whether the lights were broad 
spectrum to allow color balancing in post-processing.  But in reading 
the comments from Moose and other buyers I've seen no mention of that as 
a problem.  I was also concerned about their power output but, not being 
much of a macro photographer**, hadn't considered using them as macro 
lights where very short distances require not much power.
Moose's points about the change in technology are well taken.  If you've 
got the lenses you need for the E-M5 that's what I'd choose for the 
work.  The high ISO capability is important as is the tiltable viewing 
screen.  You'll still have to get down low but maybe won't  have to lay 
down on the ground to see what you're shooting.
Using 2 lights in photography typically uses one light about 45 degrees 
above and 45 degrees off to one side as the main light.  The second 
light is usually at about the level of the lens and is about 1/2 to one 
stop less bright than the main light.  Its usage is for shadow fill.  I 
would try the fill light in the hot shoe but if you're really close to 
the subject it may be too far above the lens for proper shadow fill. 
The advantage of the LEDs vs flash is that you won't need a flash meter 
and you'll be able to see in the view screen what you're going to get.
I would also highly recommend the use of a remote release such as this 
one. 
<https://www.amazon.com/Pixel-Digital-Wireless-Commander-Replaces/dp/B01CJ5TYFA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1470995504&sr=8-4&keywords=remote+shutter+release+olympus> 
 I own this one and can guarantee that it works on the E-M5 since 
that's where I first used it.
Finally, if you have some white card stock and an assistant or two you 
may be able to dispense with the lights and just use reflectors.
If you decide to use the Neewer lights note in the reviews that, like 
most low cost Chinese products, quality control may be lacking.  You 
could order 2 and find that one doesn't work.  Make sure you have enough 
time in your plan for experimentation and to get replacements if 
something doesn't work.
**Knee problems 2 years ago and now make it very difficult for me to get 
down on my knees.  I hope to get that fixed (for the second time) next 
month.
Chuck Norcutt


On 8/12/2016 3:53 AM, Moose wrote:
> On 8/11/2016 7:39 PM, bj@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I have been approached by a representative of a group of
> > fern plant enthusiasts based around San Diego, Calif; to guide them
> > around special ferny places in New Zealand. I've agreed and have started
> > planning - on the basis of very little input from them so far.
> >
> > I'm
> > likely to take them to some special places I have not been to in decades
> > and to have the opportunity to see and photograph species of plane I
> > haven't seen since then.
> That sounds wonderful fun!
> > I'd like to do better. My old friend and
> > mentor (long deceased now) published photos of how he photographed small
> > orchids with a Pen half-frame. See below and two to the right.
> >
> >
> > http://zone-10.com/tope2/main.php?g2_itemId=14150
> That's certainly excellent technique with the gear and film available
> then. Things have changed. You may wish to consider a different
> approach. The difference between KR 25 and ISO 1600 or higher on the
> E-M5 is, rather literally, night and day. You shouldn't need anything
> like the lighting help he needed.
>
> I've taken many perfectly lovely shots of ferns in canyons on overcast
> days. That said, you will undoubtedly want some controllable extra light.
>
> I'd suggest one or more of the cheap* and excellent small LED light
> panels currently available. John's technique relied on endless
> experience to get the lighting angles and balance right. One advantage
> of using continuous lights, rather than flash, is that you can see and
> adjust the lighting as you work, rather than relying on experience you
> don't have.
>
> Imagine flipping the LCD screen up, so you can watch as you move the
> lights in your hand, or hands, until it looks good, then taking the
> shot. These little lights have continuously adjustable brightness,
> without losing their daylight color balance. With a remote release and
> an assistant, you could adjust angle and balance of main and fill light
> - then say "shoot".
>
> By myself, I'd probably put one light in the shoe, set low, and use the
> other free in my hand. Nowadays, I'd also be using the E-M5 II, and
> viewing and shooting on my phone or tablet via WiFi. :-)
>
> I've used this basic technique only a little, with only one light - and
> it saved me endless time setting up lighting. The LED lights are
> efficient, and run some time on a set of batteries. With extra
> rechargeable Nimh batteries like Eneloops, one could go on for hours,
> then recharge overnight.
>
> > . . .
> >
> > Larger fern plants in shady places will need a modified version of
> > John's technique.
> The above approach works just as well for large and small, as the lights
> are so brightness adjustable.
>
> Out With the Old Moose
>
> * By cheap, I mean $20 for the one I have.
> <https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098G9LHU/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_2>
> There are many similar products, in various sizes and powers. Some are
> quite expensive, but I doubt that's necessary for this purpose.
--
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