On 7/11/2014 3:27 PM, Ken Norton wrote:
Moose the Night wrote:
Tina jumped on the Fuji bandwagon. She had a specific problem with the new
camera, settings moving without her intent and screwing up her work.
I wouldn't say that she "jumped on the Fuji bandwagon", but certainly
is giving it a chance to prove itself.
Then again, I would say, did, in fact. You don't think there's a Fuji bandwagon here? I especially say so as Tina's
posts indicated to me that she was relying on the many positive things said here, rather than detailed research.
As to dumbed down? Weeelll, if turning off things that get in the way, while
leaving those needed readily usable is dumb, there are times where dumb is
smart. :-)
That's the intent. But as has been pointed out by others, the Fuji
tends to kinda override your carefully defined configuration without
telling you. When you pick up a camera, you half expect it to be in
the same configuration as where you left it.
Which is why I mentioned an alternative that has neither of those problems.
This is one of the
biggest design faults of the Panasonic DMC-L1. Every time the camera
goes to sleep it resets everything to the stored configuration. So, if
I happen to adjust my WB or exposure compensation, aperture or shutter
speed or ISO or basically ANYTHING, shoot pictures, and if the camera
goes into doze mode, all my settings are gone.
That would drive the camera out of my ownership almost instantly.
To get past this, you
have to never let the camera sleep or shut it off or anything.
Gosh, that sounds like fun. ;-)
If you
want to keep your settings you have to save your settings. The Olympus
E-1 would always stay were you left it until you selected something
different. Pro cameras don't change things without you telling them to
change things.
Nor do any of my µ4/3 camera bodies. The only problem is when a pocket, bag, strap, or some such external changes
settings, and the camera can't tell the difference. The set-up I proposed on an E-PM2 obviates that while retaining the
control I want.
If I read you correctly, 'PHD button' is iAuto? That's not correct. When
using it this way, I have it in Auto Aperture, with aperture and EV comp.
settable on the rear controller. Left-right 'buttons' set EV, Up-down set
aperture - actually rather intuitive, I think.
The "PHD button" is the "Push Here Dummy Button".
Oly's name for that is iAuto.
So, only the controls I want, immediately at hand, nothing else active that
can mis-set things. (And MF-AF on Fn1)
A "professional camera" used for "news gathering" is almost always set
up as a "point and shoot". Auto everything is the automatic start
point. Nothing new here. The old timers used to have one of the
cameras configured with all the controls glued in place. They'd always
get a couple shots with that first, then use the other camera to fine
tune.
Yes, I knew that, but I'm not sure how it relates to the subject at hand.
Mule Moose
--
What if the Hokey Pokey *IS* what it's all about?
--
_________________________________________________________________
Options: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/listinfo/olympus
Archives: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/private/olympus/
Themed Olympus Photo Exhibition: http://www.tope.nl/
|