Chris, one thing that you might be fighting is the ESP metering. Try
changing the metering mode to Averaging.
Another issue involving closeups is light-loss due to extension. If
the light level is dropping down far enough the in-camera meter will
be unable to accurately determine exposure. Also, if light is entering
through the eye-piece, that will also throw the meter off.
One problem with ESP mode is the camera makes an assumption that the
active/selected focus-point is the subject and will expose for that.
If, however, you are manually focusing or doing something completely
different, it defeats the fuzzy-logic of the ESP computation.
The E-500, as with the E-300 and E-1, have Kodak sensors which don't
lend themselves as well to "Expose to the Right" and the image files
will usually be more satisfactory if you expose as close to final as
possible. In fact, with my E-1, I usually get my best files if I have
to pull the exposure up about 1/3 of a stop during RAW conversion. So,
this means that a good ambient meter will work well with these
cameras.
Meters I've personally had which I can highly recommend:
1. Gossen LunaPro. What a fantastic meter in almost every way. I do
miss those dials which give equivalency exposures. At a glance you can
tell how many minutes exposure it would take if you used F32 instead
of F1.4.
2. Polaris Digital Flash/Ambient Meter. (forgot the model number). I
passed mine along to another starving photographer when I got the
L-508. Surprisingly, this meter has turned out to be exceptionally
accurate and easy to use. The price makes this meter an absolute
bargain. Overall, this is one of the best meters available at any
price--it works, works well, is quite simple and very fast to operate.
3. Sekonic L-508. This one is in an entire series of meters. Every
couple of years Sekonic came up with an upgrade and hence a new
number. The L-508 is the last one to not show the exposure data inside
the spot-meter display. Otherwise, the metering system in it is
essentially identical to the latest/greatest, but lacks the newer
computer features and anylitical features. The dome on the Sekonic is
retractable which provides for both flat and dome exposure. The spot
meter is zoomable. I REALLY like the Sekonic and it has enabled me to
explore some really advanced lighting techniques which were possible
before, but not really understood. This is a case where the tool can
become the teacher.
Back to ESP for a second. If you are using variable ND-grads or
polarizers on the lens, this may be throwing ESP off. A systems lens
passes information onto the camera and the camera-lens is expecting
certain results. If you put something on the lens which is reducing
the transmitted EV, ESP may be fooled. With older manual-focus lenses,
all bets are off.
Maybe others have been able to get it to work correctly, but the
spot-metering in the E-1 or DMC-L1 almost always fails to give me a
predictable and reliable exposure.
AG Schnozz
--
_________________________________________________________________
Options: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/listinfo/olympus
Archives: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/private/olympus/
Themed Olympus Photo Exhibition: http://www.tope.nl/
|