Dr. Flash predicts that your trouble point may be TTL flash which will
allow minor exposure variations throughout. That'll give the stacking
software some headaches as it tries to do frame to frame calculations.
If you can't meter it properly then take the first shot with digital
until you get a good histogram. Record the exposure and then switch to
film and use the same exposure (both flash and ambient) on all frames.
Make sure to use fresh NiMH batteries in the flash and allow at least
double the stated recycle time between frames to make sure the flash is
truly 100% charged. Not that Oly would lie or anything but it takes a
T-32 at least twice the stated recharge time to get to about 90% charge.
But a T-32 is exactly the wrong flash for this application. You need
something with lots of manual power settings. Then remove the flash
from camera so that you can adjust the distance of flash to subject for
finer power control. Flash on the camera will also change flash
exposure if the camera is moving to change the focus distance.
Dr. Flash
On 7/14/2011 10:30 PM, usher99@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Do you think stacking scanned film will work OK? Plan to use cross
> polarization flash and will have to stack
> about 1lmm cauts. Will use the Zuiko 38 macro. Will also likely use
> TTL flash if possible too given the convenience and difficulty with any
> manual type flash. The smaller lighter OM
> will be easier to handle,but worried about stacking scanned film and
> the delay in feedback about errors
> as well as whether the software will deal with it OK. Comments,
> conjectures as well as arm chair speculation appreciated.
>
> Limited high Mag experience, Mike
>
--
_________________________________________________________________
Options: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/listinfo/olympus
Archives: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/private/olympus/
Themed Olympus Photo Exhibition: http://www.tope.nl/
|