> I rationalize it the other way, Chuck. The physical aperture stays the
> same, but the actual lens-to-sensor distance must be substituted for the
> original FL. Then, the lens-to-sensor distance is divided by the aperture
> to get the effective f-stop. These measurements don't require a lot of
> accuracy. Fortunately, I can just set the selector to "A" and the camera
> does all of the work for me.
Or, you can do what I do and reference the LLDTE tables in the Kodak
Professional Photographer's Handbook. :)
Many of the Mamiya MF cameras used to have the light-loss tables right
on a placard with the bellows extension. Way cool.
AG
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