I rationalize it the other way, Chuck. The physical aperture stays the
same, but the actual lens-to-sensor distance must be substituted for the
original FL. Then, the lens-to-sensor distance is divided by the aperture
to get the effective f-stop. These measurements don't require a lot of
accuracy. Fortunately, I can just set the selector to "A" and the camera
does all of the work for me.
Jim Nichols
Tullahoma, TN USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Norcutt" <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Olympus Camera Discussion" <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 4:05 PM
Subject: Re: [OM] So here's the deal...
> Eh? This ain't got nothing to do with digital or sensor sizes. Have
> you had meters in your cameras for so many years that you've forgotten
> all about exposure adjustments for magnification when shooting macro?
> The effective aperture is reduced and the image becomes dimmer. Go read
> the Oly bellows manual for your punishment. :-)
>
> Chuck Norcutt
>
> On 12/15/2010 4:23 PM, Andrew Fildes wrote:
>> I thought we'd dealt with that one recently.
>> The view is smaller, not dimmer.
>> An aperture is an aperture is an aperture.
>> The sensor size does not affect it.
>> If I put my Zeiss 180mm f2.8 medium format lens on 35mm, it does not
>> become an f2.
>> I can put it on my E-P2 and have done for fun. Does it become an f.1.4?
>> No.
>> My Voigt. 25mm f0.95 is still that aperture on mFT.
>> It's DOF that is affected.
>>
>> Andrew Fildes
>> afildes@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>
>>
>>
>> On 16/12/2010, at 12:31 AM, Chuck Norcutt wrote:
>>
>>> But the reason for an f/2 macro lens is not for you to shoot at f/2.
>>> It's so you can still focus at an effective f/3 instead of f/5.3 when
>>> you're at half life-size. That said, I only have the f/3.5 version.
>>> f/2 is too expensive. :-)
>>
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