So, with the 2N and 1N you'd have to use the PC connection as well as
setting the sync to FP in order to use a flash bulb?
Chuck Norcutt
John Hermanson wrote:
> Only the 2N (and 1N) have constant X sync at the hot shoe regardless of
> sync switch position, and that is with any flash, not just Ts. There's
> a diode in the flash circuit that allows this, though it does prevent
> some studio flashes from firing.
>
> Olympus Service made up a small plastic "doohickey" that snaps in behind
> the sync switch. It was created for use on UPI ad National Geographic
> cameras. It holds the switch at X and prevents accidental turning. I
> have some of those.
>
> ________________________________
> John Hermanson | CPS, Inc.
> 21 South Ln., Huntington NY 11743
> 631-424-2121 | www.zuiko.com
> Olympus OM Service since 1977
> Gallery: www.zuiko.com/album/index.html
>
>
> Chuck Norcutt wrote:
>> See your OM-2 manual. If you have a T-flash mounted the camera senses
>> it and automatically sets X sync regardless of the switch setting. If
>> you don't have a T-flash mounted you're responsible to set the sync to
>> FP or X yourself.
>>
>> Flash bulbs used to be sold in different types. FP was the type to be
>> used on cameras that had focal plane shutters. The characteristic of an
>> FP bulb was a long burn time. Since the bulb puts out light
>> continuously the bulb is able to sync the full range from 1/60 to
>> 1/1000. But the manual says not longer than 1/60. 1/60, of course, is
>> the max for OM cameras on X sync. But I don't know if you'd get proper
>> sync for both regardless of sync setting at 1/60. I think not. I
>> suspect the bulb on FP would get lit as soon as the first shutter
>> curtain started to open. But that would be a disaster for an X sync
>> electronic flash. It would have dumped it's charge completely before
>> the first curtain got off the starting gate. That's probably what
>> happened to you.
>>
>> I've never done it myself but I can recall someone on this list from
>> many years ago describing some way to lock the sync switch on to X. It
>> may have been a tiny dab of contact cement which would be easily
>> removable if desired. I just went to take a look at my OM-1's sync
>> switch to check how it might be done and was a bit startled to find it
>> setting on FP. Ooops!
>>
>> Chuck Norcutt
>>
>>
>> usher99@xxxxxxx wrote:
>>> Thanks Chuck, AG, Carlos for thinking about this. Carlos hit the nail
>>> on the head. Couldn't be an easier fix but wish the penalty for missing
>>> that hadn't been so high. Happened once about 5 years ago in Montana
>>> but I had a T-flash in TTL mode and I think you get a heads-up.
>>> I don't remember exactly but perhaps the shutter is kept open to
>>> complete the exposure. I had made a mental note that this could be a
>>> disaster if happened again but obviously forgot about it. In manual
>>> mode there is not a clue anthing is askew. Not sure how the FP mode
>>> works , but I sure won't ever forget to check the switch position. :-(
>>> I really dread picking up this batch but I was told some of the images
>>> with a potential TOPE shot were interesting. We'll see.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Wow! I don't think I've thought about the X/FP switch since 1976. :-)
>>>
>>> Chuck Norcutt
>>>
>>>
>>> Carlos J. Santisteban wrote:
>>>> Hi Mike and all,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> From: usher99@xxxxxxx
>>>>> Nothing fancy used either. OM-2 in manual with V283 on a bracket
>>> with
>>>>> remote cord on the usual yellow for use with F4.
>>>>>
>>>> You mean the 'plain' OM-2 -- not -n, not S? Then it could be the
>>> position of
>>>> the X/FP switch...
>>>>
>>>> All the best,
--
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