I'll just add a bit to Moose's post. I well remember discovering John
and this list and having my OM-1 CLA'd after oh-so many years. I didn't
really thing there was anything wrong with it but when it came back it
operated with buttery smoothness. John (and perhaps your repair guy in
Oz) can do the silver oxide conversion along with the CLA. It's a
fairly simple task involving soldering a diode in-line with the battery
wire and adding a small washer-like spacer to the battery box to center
the smaller silver-oxide battery.
I would also recommend a good eyecup for the OM-1. I prefer the 3rd
party teardrop shaped ones since they fit the eye socket very well and
block extraneous light. The OM-1 and OM-2 and their "n" variants have
their photo sensor cells in the pentaprism. These cells can see and
will respond to bright extraneous light leaking in from behind you so a
good eyecup can help guarantee correct exposure.
The 2sp and later single digit bodies have the sensor on the floor of
the mirror cage where it it not affected by extraneous light.
Chuck Norcutt
Moose wrote:
>
> John has done many, many CLAs and repairs for list members and is very
> highly regarded. The diffrenece between the feel and operation of a body
> he has CLAed and a perfectly 'good' body that has never been tuned up is
> simply night and day. You can see details at his site. <http://zuiko.com/>
>> , or should I just go old fashioned and find a good hand-held light meter /
>> "sunny 16"?
> My primary OM-1 is one with a John H. CLA, so you know where I stand.
> Feel and hear it as it was meant to be. And incidently, get an accurate,
> working light meter that has been internally converted to use regular
> silver oxide batteries.
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