On Wed, 27 Jun 2007, Lukasz Grabun wrote:
> http://grabun.com/zdjecia/lato/
I have to say I'm very impressed with #4, from a technical point of view.
Flare has never looked so good before :)
> Would someone enlighten me what is wrong with my thinking and why did
> the camera metered the light the way it did?
I tend to somewhat disagree with what has been said before. Intuitively it
seems to me that your thinking was correct and that the center weighted
meter should have caused underexposure at +/- 0 with the way you framed
#5. Of course this is assuming the ratio of sky and ground is the same in
all the bracketed shots.
I think you should experiment and develop a feel for how your own camera
works with your particular selection of film. Light meters don't meter
exactly the same, while your're operating with 1/3-s here, a difference of
a full stop is not so uncommon (I'm talking about 30 years old equipment
here of course).
If you've used a lot of print film recently and scanned it, then switching
to slide can also reveal things that were not an issue before. Color print
film and slide film don't respond the same way, I think overexposure of +1
won't be an issue if a minilab does your print film.
> [2]. The second question is on GND. How do you use one? According to
> what I've made up it should go as follows: use spotmeter to expose for
> darker foreground, compensate as much as needed, lock exposure, place
> filter against the lens, make a picture. Am I correct?
Sounds quite accurate. I'm somewhat embarassed to say I've just slapped it
on, pointed the camera in a general direction and fired away, never
thinking about is as methodically as you've described :)
Of course you know how many stops your ND is, so spot metering brighter
and darker half of the frame and doing some mental calculations should
work great. You probably have a general idea what brightness range you
want to force the lighter areas in.
priit.
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