Hi Scott - I was just being silly and that's when I know I should ask the
list... the thing caught my eye in a display overflowing with MF gear. I've
picked up a couple of books on the zone system and I'd like to make very
simplistic attempts at using it with OM bodies after I've been through my
initial photo classes (hoping to sign up this spring, at loooong last). Bill
and Chris are on the money: if OM spot meters are highly accurate, why use a
handheld spot meter unless I want to use some other format or early OM bodies?
Sure is purty, hope it makes someone with a Toyo happy.
Now, your sky technique sounds beautiful. I might do just that one fine day
with my bodies and make notes on each of them. Would a Zuiko135mm do OK?. - Phil
On 15:12, ScottGee1 wrote:
>John Shaw noted years ago the most meters are 'off' a bit, some more
>than others. He suggested a simple process to 'calibrate' any meter.
>Put a medium tele lens on your camera. Go outside on a sunny day
>around noon. If you're in the Northern hemisphere, point your meter
>at the clear north sky at an area about 45 degrees above the horizon.
>Set focus at infinity. Aperture set at f/16, shutter speed at 1/ISO
>(I usually use 125). Adjust the *film speed* until the exposure is
>'correct' . Note the deviation (or not!) from the ISO set as shutter
>speed. Minus one stop? Your meter overexposes by one stop so set it
>accordingly in the future. Of course you'll need to shoot some film
>to double check this.
>
>If it's not too impertinent, may I ask *why* you want/need a handheld
>spotmeter?
>
>hth/ScottGee1
==
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