Philippe, I've owned both though not at the same time.
Both were accurate. I'll underline Bill's comment: only those meters
bearing a sticker that says "Modified by Zone VI" have actually been
internally modified. They also sold a simple zone range sticker that
could be pasted on the meter as a guide. That sticker is also on the
modified ones so it can be confusing.
I liked Fred Picker personally and admire his work. I also realized
he could get caught up on that "final one percent" of perfectionism.
When he hooked up with Horowitz he found a kindred spirit and they set
about trying to create the ultimate tools to control the entire image
making process. Some of those are more useful than others.
Keep in mind that the bottom line is to find an EV that works best for
a given image. Every camera offers two variables to achieve that goal
-- shutter speed and aperture. Rocket science it ain't.
John Shaw noted years ago the most meters are 'off' a bit, some more
than others. He suggested a simple process to 'calibrate' any meter.
Put a medium tele lens on your camera. Go outside on a sunny day
around noon. If you're in the Northern hemisphere, point your meter
at the clear north sky at an area about 45 degrees above the horizon.
Set focus at infinity. Aperture set at f/16, shutter speed at 1/ISO
(I usually use 125). Adjust the *film speed* until the exposure is
'correct' . Note the deviation (or not!) from the ISO set as shutter
speed. Minus one stop? Your meter overexposes by one stop so set it
accordingly in the future. Of course you'll need to shoot some film
to double check this.
If it's not too impertinent, may I ask *why* you want/need a handheld spotmeter?
hth/ScottGee1
On 2/8/07, Philippe Le Zuikomane <zuikomane@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> Thanks - still wondering if the unmodified version is not just as good,
> though... - Phil
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