I think you must have meant:
"Camera: ISO 400, APERTURE PRIORITY, WB 5300 (-1 step), Exposure..."
Sounds to me like more work than just setting manual mode and setting
the shutter at 1/15 or whatever seems a reasonable time to drag given
the focal length and ambient conditions.
I used to shoot with the flash in auto mode but I ended up with too many
shots where the flash was fooled. I've found that I get better results
shooting manual mode on the flash once I've built a little table of
flash power vs. distance. Then just restrict yourself to being at a
specific distance and zoom to do the framing. If you shoot raw, any
exposure errors on your part due to estimating, say, 10 feet are easily
correctible within the dynamic range of the raw file.
Chuck Norcutt
AG Schnozz wrote:
> For what it's worth, let me pass on one of my setups. This is
> Memory #3 on my E-1. Memory #4 is the natural light setting.
>
> For use with the Vivitar 285HV and Lumiquest Ultrabounce light
> modifier:
>
> Flash: Auto-Yellow, head tilted up 45 degrees, ISO 400.
>
> Camera: ISO 400, Auto-Aperture, WB 5300 (-1 step), Exposure
> Compensation -1.5, Aperture set to 4.5 (give or take one stop).
>
> This configuration works INDOORS and in almost any distance from
> 2 meters to 10 meters (depending on ceiling). The -1.5 exposure
> compensation allows the camera to "drag the shutter" to give the
> room a nice ambient light. Even if the flash were to fail for
> some reason, you still may have a usable shot to work with. If I
> need more distance than 8 meters I either remove the Ultrabounce
> or scab the ISO up to 800. It is important to keep an eye on
> the shutter speed that it doesn't exceed the 1/180 max flash
> sync speed.
>
> Now, would I normally recommend aperture priority mode when
> shooting with an old-technology flash? No. The recommended
> method is to always use manual shutter speed and aperture. If
> I'm shooting outdoors for instance, it is going to be a bit of a
> hassle to keep the shutter speed form exceeding 1/180 so locking
> in that setting is absolutely required.
>
> A little trick I do, when I know the meter will get fooled is to
> initially start out in aperture-priority mode with the -1.5
> exposure compensation and note what the indicated shutter speed
> is. I take a couple test shots to verify everything, and then I
> change the camera mode to Manual and dial in that specific
> shutter speed. I dispise the "match-needle" metering in the E-1
> as it goes the wrong direction in relation to the control
> wheels. Anyway, I learned this technique with the OM-2S where I
> almost always use auto-exposure mode, but have my "stand by
> shutter speed" dialed in. It's just a flick of the lever to go
> from auto to manual and right back. This way, if I'm shooting
> bright-sunny daylight, I can program in my Sunny-16 equivelent
> shutter speed and always be safe if I know the meter is being
> fooled.
>
> AG
>
>
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