Welcome Ian!
swisspace wrote:
>okay now to the reason of posting, I have been taking some close up
>"macro" shots with just the 180f2 and 1.4x converter and I can see the
>lens settling from the mirror vibration, so I have been experimenting,
>such as using fill in flash to freeze it etc. The tripod is a cheap one
>so it is mostly to blame, but should I buy an expensive tripod
>
I don't know what you mean by expensive. A sturdy tripod should be a big
help.
>or another OM body which has mirror lock up (self timer would be usefull as
>well)
>
Obviously mirror lock up and apertuer prefire would be steps in the
right direction. A fatal shortcoming to the OM-3(Ti) in my view.
However, it is possible to largely mitigate the effects of mirror,
aperture mechanism and shutter with proper equipment and technique.
Did you read my posts of Sept 4 and 5/04 on the subject "200mm f4 broken
at small apertures?" They discuss this at some length. They are in the
archives <http://lists.tako.de/html/Olympus-OM/> or drop me a note and
I'll send them to you.
> and if so which body would you recommend - I have been looking at
>OM4's on thingybay but reading various lists, this seems the most fault
>prone of the bodies
>
I don't think that is necessarily true. A lot of them were sold and
reports of trouble are partly proportionate to numbers out there. If you
are used to the spot meter in the 3Ti and how it handles generally, one
of the 4 series bodies would feel very familiar to you. There seem to be
a fair number of plain OM-4 bodies around that have the 4Ti circuit in
them and they are a pretty good bet. Here's how to tell
<http://olympus.dementia.org/Hardware/OM-4_circuits.html>. That's what I
have.
>, so maybe I should wait until I can afford a second
>hand Ti version.
>
You mention flash sync at all speeds as an important feature of the 3Ti.
The only other body with that feature and the others you want is the
OM-4T or Ti, same camera.
>OR any recommendations for a decent tripod and what sort of price range
>covers decent eg do I need to pay 2-300 dollars for a ball head, etc.
>
I don't know the European market. If the Hakuba carbon fibre tripods are
reasonable priced there, I sure like mine. A ball head may or may not be
best, depending on shat you are going to use it for. I use my ball heads
less often than others. There are also some pretty decent ball heads for
alot less than $200-300. Velbon makes some nice ones. With tripods and
heads, it really pays to go play with them in person. What one person
loves drives another crazy. I'd rather buy a camera without holding and
playing with it than a tripod and head.
Moose
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