I have had some stunning success scanning pre-1960 Kodachromes *with ICE* in
that the fungus and scratches simply vanish without obvious harm to the rest
of the image. But there have been some frames where the use of IC has
introduced a colour shift which is not pleasant.
http://www.hemy.me.uk/Scales/Image10.jpg
http://www.hemy.me.uk/Scales/Image11.jpg
On balance (and greatly to my surprise), ICE was better than nothing on many
of the Kodachromes - and of course on non-Kodachrome, no question.
In non-photgraphic applications, ammonia is usually remarkably effective
against mould. Do you have a slide you could sacrifice? You could respond
"after you, old chap", but in fact the major problem with my dad's slides is
not mould, so much as liquefaction of the emulsion, as if blobs of boiling
water have landed on them. I suspect damp and extreme cold.
http://www.hemy.me.uk/Scales/Image25.jpg
Warning - the iamges are nearly 200k each.
Piers
-----Original Message-----
From: olympus-owner@xxxxxxxxxx [mailto:olympus-owner@xxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf
Of W Shumaker
Sent: 05 August 2004 23:07
To: olympus@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [OM] Re: cleaning negatives
Will this stuff help out old kodachromes with fungus? I would like to at
least stop the stuff from further destruction of some of my dad's chromes
from the 50's.
also, does nose grease vary much depending on the manufacturer?
I seem to have had a lot more of it when I was a teenager.
I'm having a terrible time scanning the old kodachromes since ice is causing
other problems. It seems some chromes scan with ice just fine while with
others, the IR channel interacts with the dyes.
Wayne
At 10:19 AM 8/4/2004, you wrote:
>In a couple of days some fingerprints will have "set". It totally
>depends on whether or not the emulsion has hardened prior to the
>contamination.
>
>By six months, the fingerprints will have permanently etched the
>emulsion. PEC-12 will remove any remaining oils and dirt.
>Sometimes just cleaning the neg with PEC-12 will give you a clean scan,
>but sometimes you have to also follow up with nose-grease which "fills
>the gaps" and changes the diffraction angles from any scratches.
>Nose-grease effectively changes the surface location of the film.
>
>With old-fashioned enlargement, nose-grease is a miricle substance and
>it does work for scanning too. However, in my experience, you will end
>up with more "pepper-grain" noise in the scan caused by diffraction.
>(can you say: Velvia? Provia?)
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