Regarding live histograms... It's pretty cool. Absolutely
necessary? Well, it's one more thing in the viewfinder to
distract from composing ease. I think my ideal camera would
have a data display below or to the side. Hmm. OM-2S and OM-4?
But the live histogram does give you an idea what's going on in
tricky lighting conditions that can fool the meter BEFORE you
take the picture. In situations where it isn't practical to
review your shots, the live histogram is handy.
Regarding auto exposure... I agree with Chuck, Minolta has
really figured out the Matrix Metering game. It does get
fooled, but not too often. I have mine setup where the AEL
button triggers the spot metering mode--just like the spot
button on the OM-4 and IS-3. However, mine is setup for press
and hold because the button location is too easy to accidently
bump to use the toggle mode.
Regarding keepers... Well, I've already sold a stock photograph
from the camera, one art-print and two more stock photographs
pending. These were just from pictures taken Monday evening.
Regarding sharpness and grain... This is the archilles heel of
the Minolta. It's important to know where the limitations are
and stay within the envelope. RAW mode is necessary for critical
work, but JPEG Xtra-Fine is remarkably good. There's about a
100 LPH difference between the two.
Regarding antishake... I'm sold. I took a nighttime handheld
picture using the following settings: 200mm (equivelent), 1/4
second, F3.5, ISO 100 (160 actual). Razor sharp. It's right at
the resolution limit of the camera. Let me see anybody handhold
a OM and 200mm Zuiko at 1/4 second. Of course, it took a
half-dozen shots to get it, but... There is no substitute for
big lenses and fast ISO, but this would have been a no-go shot
otherwise. This technology really does work and it works very
well. It won't stop action, but it does take care of camera
motion. I'm posting samples up on my website.
Regarding Shutters... What a difference a leaf shutter makes.
Quiet, smooth, no vibration. Oh and flash sync at any speed.
I'm getting really spoiled here.
Regarding articulating monitors... Makes studio photography a
dream. The camera position and my head position are rarely
compatable. Being able to tilt the monitor makes a huge
difference. Of course, you've got live view, so there isn't any
need to use the viewfinder. I only wish that it tilted side to
side for shooting verticals.
Regarding megazooms... Oh, I hate the barrel distortion. At
28mm (equiv), this lens is really distorted. 35-50mm (equiv) is
rather good, though. Bokeh is not world class by any means, but
what I've seen has less to do with focal length than lens
design. It really is possible to build a lens for these small
formats that has creamy bokeh, but you won't get it in a modern
zoom. My Zuikos are safe from retirement.
Regarding color... Nice. I like Olympus' color processing
better, but I personally like the color much better than Canon's
DRebel/10D. Skintones are very good and have required little to
no post-processing. Shooting B&W in-camera also produces
remarkably good photographs. It isn't as good as Tri-X or Delta
400, but in the neighborhood of XP-2 with extended red
sensitivity (which raises skin value half a zone).
Regarding blown highlights... Not bad at all. I have to really
try to blow them out. There appears to be some shoulder to the
response curves that isn't typically found in digital cameras.
I've got to really expose to the right to get my white paper in
studio shots to wash out.
Regarding RAW mode... The converter is slow, but effective.
I've been working up a couple profiles for it that allow easy
batch processing. Normal sharpening in the raw converter is
equivelent to soft in-camera.
Regarding formfactor... The camera is lightweight! But it
doesn't feel cheezy. The controls are very well laid out and
are highly configurable. Batteries last forever. Grip is very
comfortable with the BP400 installed. The camera is almost
identically shaped and sized to the IS-1. When shooting, you
can override or adjust anything without having to hit a menu or
defeat something. Dare I say it? Very OM like. HERESY!
Ok. so what's my conclusion? You can pick up the Minolta A1 in
the low $600 range right now. It isn't perfect, and in fact,
there are some serious noise, sharpness and optical issues to
battle. But I wasn't looking for a 100% camera system. I was
looking for something that would allow me to cross-over gently
into digital. This camera is nearly ideal for maybe 75% of my
shooting. Considering the VERY professional interface,
formfactor, features and results, I consider it an absolute
steal. You can't even buy a decent lens for a DSLR for that
price.
In two weeks, we're going camping, adventuring, and fourwheeling
in some semi-remote location a day's drive from here and I'll be
packing every bit of 4x5, OM gear, Velvia and Delta 400 I can
find. And the A1. What will probably get left behind is the
IS-3. Seems a little redundant. When I encounter "THE PICTURE"
I'll shoot it with everything I've got, however, I expect that
the bulk of my shots will be digital. Until the batteries run
out, at least.
AG Schnozz
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