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RE: [OM] Best way to see dust in a lens?

Subject: RE: [OM] Best way to see dust in a lens?
From: "John A. Lind" <jlind@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 02:37:11 -0500
At 01:28 AM 8/3/03, you wrote:
Adams Mill Bridge shot w/the 18mm f/3.5 Zuiko MC is very proposal for
such a wide lens, great job.
What care did you have to do to achieve it if any?
Daniel

This will seem glib, but had to climb down a steep embankment *very* carefully. There was a lot of loose gravel and I kept slipping on it in spite of cleated boots. I was worried some about falling with not only an OM-4 in my hands, but an even more expensive lens on the front of it too . . . and if I slide down entirely I'd end up in the water next to the abutment.

From a more technical aspect, I was faced with too much visual clutter too close to the front of the bridge, including a massive power pole supporting an incredibly large and ugly street/security light, a prominent power drop line to the pole, and several of the required bright yellow load limit signs. Tried first to shoot it with the 24mm and couldn't compose the entire bridge without getting into the visual clutter. Even with the 18mm I wish I could have gotten just a little farther to the right to reduce the convergence of the horizontal lines of the bridge front. As usual, whoever put up the pole and signs had no concept about how to do it to keep an historical landmark reasonably photogenic. It was one of those occasions I was wishing for my chain saw to remove them, but was lucky it wasn't in the car or I'd have been residing in the gray-bar hotel for a while.

The hardest part was trying to hold a proper perspective of the bridge without a tripod (had it with me, but slope too steep to use it). Took several shots realizing the risks; this one worked OK. The 18mm works best with a tripod that has leveling bubbles. Even with leveling bubbles, architectural objects are not always true vertical and/or horizontal. Alignment with viewfinder frame edges should be checked and tripod head adjusted if necessary. I do this by leveling the head first, then alternately rotating the camera right/left and up/down to check frame edges with subject lines, and adjust things if needed. Same thing can be done by hand, but with much greater difficulty holding it true. It's very easy to end up with slightly off-kilter lines that a viewer of the photograph later would expect to be vertical or horizontal, and with a lens that wide it's very easy to end up with them off-kilter slightly.

Thanks,
-- John


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