----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Culberson" <waynecul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> Still, it is nice to have that little needle in the OM1, which
> indicates how much you over/underexpose when "twiddeling the knobs"
> on the outside of the camera. The procedure of looking through the
> viewfinder, getting a reading of the light-meter, taking the camera
> from the eye to "twiddle the knobs" and then back to compose just
> seems silly. However that is how it is in manual mode OM10-20-30-40.
>
> In my not so humble opinion, the build-in meter on the 10-20-30-40 us
> almost useless for manual exposure mode, since it causes that silly
> movement of the camera from the eye to check how the "knobs" have
> been "tweedled".
I can't disagree at all! My main use right now is aperture-priority
daylight or manual flash. Basic settings. The numerical light meter gives
me an indication of when I don't have "enough" light. That's when I switch
to tripod or some reasonable substitute. I find that anything above the "1"
gives me something to work with. Is the OM-1 needle sensitive in that
range?
> The double-digits, I guess, were designed for being primarilly used
> in apeture-priority auto mode, where the feedback in the viewfinder
> (the shutter speed selected by the camera) is absolutely appropriate.
>
Hm. The only real use is knowing when to switch to flash or tripod. Or
way, way, overexposed! Auto-ap works pretty good for casual shooting.
>However, I find now that I use an OM2s almost
> exclusively, and about 950f the time in manual mode. I think I can get
> equally good pictures with most any of the OM bodies, but some are a lot
> more fun and easier to use.
> Wayne
>
You guys are going to convince me to buy a 3Ti before this is over...
- Tom
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