My ha'penny worth:
> The OM2 locks the mirror at the beginning of the self-timer,
This is the OM2S only. OM2(n) flips the mirror just before exposure starts in
all modes.
> > > 7. Do you think there is a quality difference between the Om1 and Om2n,
The OM2(n) is essentially an OM1(n) with an electronic circuit replacing the
shutter escapement. There is no difference in quality between them.
An OM2S is a very different beast.
> Note for the OM-10 to 40's: as Chuck Norcutt points out these are less
> solid. This can amongst other things be seen by the fact that they only take
> the 2.5fps Winders, not the 5fps Motor drives (which would smash their
> mirrors and shutter curtains over time).
40s take the full - monty motor, but only do 3.5 FPS because of the time
required by program mode operation (same as the OM2S)
Later 10s take the motor without self - destructing if you do a little surgery
on the diode. late 10s, 20s and 30s do full speed with the motor drive.
Apart from the OM1 with MLU, none of the bodies do the full 5FPS claimed in the
later literature with MD1. The early literature made it clear that 4FPS was all
you could expect without MLU. To get the 5, you need more voltage than the
standard control pack provides, also (control grip with alkalines or mains
power)
ALL the double - digit cameras are built to lower standards, but not
necessarily in the actual functioning parts.
> Be very careful if you buy used motors. The control pack batteries may be
> mishandled and do not charge properly or run out of juice quickly.
But they are REALLY easy to rebuild. The harder things with motors are the
rubber - ring friction clutch and the contacts for the 250 exposure back. Track
- burn in the control switch on the control pack, pin - burn on the connector
plate. And paint that doesn't like to stay on.
Julian
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