> I am confused on the current thread about fill flash. We know that
> (save for the F280) our sync speed is limited to 1/60, so why all the
> crazy contraptions? When shooting for fill, I either use GN numbers if
> I know that the background will be dark, or I select the aperture that
> will give a 1/30 second exposure, and let the flash do the rest. I
> haven't come across a situation that I would need faster than 1/60. if
> one is in bright daylight, I have found it easier to spot meter the face
> and shoot the scene back-lit which usually turns out to be better on a
> face than to have sun shadows filled with a light source that is
> slightly different color cast.
>
> What am I missing?
Well, I am confused on the whole flash thing altogether, so its back to the
books, flash 101, for me I guess.
If I'm doing any serious fill-flash, its likely for a portrait, so is with
either Portra 160 or 400. My thinking has been, since fill-flash is often
needed on sunny days, that means at 1/60 OM sync, the f number has to be
about f16-f22 for 160 film, and may as well forget 400iso, it won't work.
The OM2000 gives 1/125 sync, which gets you by with a 50/1.8 which only has
f/16. The extra 2/3 stop from the 160 iso film (over the sunny 16 rule 100
iso) won't matter with Portra, in fact I would likely go another stop to
f/11 to help the flash a little. Even if you drop to 100 iso film, it is
still not ideal for OM's, as the 1/60 shutter speed is a little slow for
hand held if using 100mm, which is what one is more likely to choose for
single portraits.
When taking a family self-portrait recently on a sunny afternoon, I used a
TLR which syncs up to 1/500. With Portra 160 in the camera, it allowed for a
more open aperture, which the flash normally needs in fill flash situations.
I had the OM1n filled with Portra 400 that day, so I just forgot about using
fill flash with it. And the results weren't so great... dark faces, and
unusable pictures.
I admit I get confused trying to remember how the T flashes work anyway -
what speed it sets the shutter to, whether the flash turned on sets to 1/60
or 1/45 or not at all (as on the OM1n), whether it actually sets to sync
speed, or just limits shutter speed to 1/60, or whether the flash (and
shutter speed) is ignored if there is enough ambient that flash isn't
needed, whether I have to set the aperture to a fixed position as with the
OM10, or whether its better to set to auto or to program with PC or 2s, or
do I have to tape over a contact to use slower than fastest sync, or what
does the calculator panel really do practically when it is turned over, or
just left off altogether, or whether to set the aperture so the speed reads
at 1/30 in the viewfinder if you really want to be sure the flash fires when
the ambient might be enough to cancel the flash, etc., etc. Guess I'm denser
than most here (maybe I need the OM4/280 combo?). I've read the manuals and
Shipman's book, and just when I think I have it, along comes this thread and
I realize I'm all confused again.
I have to confess if its important for flash to be right, when using my
OM's, I set everything on manual. I might use ttl if I'm just getting a
birthday picture and its in the normal small room/house situation, but then
the Epic 2.8 is fine for that situation, and there's nothing to put together
or wait for charge up.
It really makes one appreciate the flash system on the Olympus RC. Set the
GN on the camera to match the flash/film you're using, set on "z" and focus.
You don't have to worry about whether there is a close enough/light enough
background to make auto or ttl work, or whether you're at sync speed, or if
the camera is going to let the flash fire or not, etc.
Wayne
< This message was delivered via the Olympus Mailing List >
< For questions, mailto:owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >
< Web Page: http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright/olympuslist.html >
|