Moose,
Good question; I might add that I have not had mine anywhere near long
enough to break anything (..yet). But I was only really leaving open the
possibility of using what might be better materials for individual parts and
fine tuning. I don't know whether the shutter could be coaxed up to 2K and
still be of the mechanical variety. Personally, from a user point of view, I
like mine like it is :)
My idea of "product developement" would be to ask those who fix 'em what
breaks first and most often, why and how. Then make minor adjustments
accordingly in materials and fine tuning design details (I wish they did
this with cars too) as opposed to practically scrapping and replacing it
with something different every couple of years.
Cheers,
Lee
----Original Message Follows----
From: dreammoose <dreammoose@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [OM] how would you design *YOUR* OM-X?
OK, I gotta ask.
Other than leaving out the prism foam, what would you want to change for
longevity? My first Oly, a pre MD OM-1, needs the back foam replaced and
I had to clean up the prism foam. Otherwise it is fully functional,
including an accurate meter. It's gone maybe 27 years and is clearly
good for many more.
What performance improvements? Flash sync at higher speeds, meter
provision for higher film speeds (1600 is enough for me) and spot
metering are about all I can think of. Oh yeah, and aperture prefire. Of
course in a new camera, you are going to lose the meter needle and get
LED/LCDs., losing one of the things I like most about the OM-1 & 2.
Get a nice clean OM-1(n) that's been sitting around most of the last 20+
years so nothing is really worn (lots of those around) and has a clean
prism (or get it replaced with one from an OM-10 or 20(G)), get it CLAed
and adjusted to 1.5v battery and you've got your OM-Z And way cheaper
than a new model would be!
Moose
Lee Penzias wrote:
I'd be happy if they simply reproduced the OM-1 with improved
materials for longivity and better performance and called it the OM-Z.
The proverbial mechanical swiss watch. No batteries necessary except
for the meter of course ;)
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